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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
7
Baronka
Through the right part of the valley wall to the 1st K, up to the 2nd K and along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Baronka
From S (South), by a jump/leap further up. Rock Climbing
7
Markýza
Up the wall of the adjacent M (massif/mountain) over 2 K to the rappelling K further up. Rock Climbing
6
Markýza
Along the East wall, traverse right over the edge into the N wall, right under the… Rock Climbing
6
Markýza
In the E wall from the right, up the corner to the pillar to K and then up the wall. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Markýza
Along the East wall, traverse along the ledge right to the NE edge and along it over 2 K… Rock Climbing
6-
Markýza
Along the crack from the valley side over the overhang to the 1st K on the balcony.… Rock Climbing
1
Markýza
From the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Markýza
From the SW edge, along the crack to the balcony in the W wall, then up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
3
Markýza
Through the chimney between M and the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Věž u Německé
In the right part of the valley wall to the 1st bolt, upwards to the bolt of the Valley… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Věž u Německé
Through the upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Věž u Německé
Through the left part of the valley wall to the bolt, left into the small crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Věž u Německé
Up the wall below the abseil station to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Věž L.E.K
From the saddle right along the ledge to the NW edge and to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Mořská víla
Up the right part of the valley wall via K directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Frankenstein
Through the chimney from the north to the terrace. Rock Climbing
4
Věž L.E.K
In the right part of the plateau wall through a recess to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Mořská víla
Up the West face along the valley edge via K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Mořská víla
Up the left part of the valley wall to a ledge and through the middle of the East face to… Rock Climbing
6
Frankenstein
On the North face to the pillar, up the wall into the chimney and to the terrace. Rock Climbing
6
Frankenstein
From SW through the chimney between the towers and a passage to K. Up the wall into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Frankenstein
Traverse from the plateau edge to the valley edge (hourglass/thread) behind the edge and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
9
Mšenská věž
Through the middle of the upper wall and from the left to the top. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
4
Mšenská věž
Up the upper wall into the small cave, right past the edge onto the ledge and to the top. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Mšenská věž
From the S (South) from the massif, traverse/jump over to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Mšenská věž
From the massif, descend and step over onto the ledge. Rock Climbing
6
Vatikánská stěna
In the left part of the wall, by a small rock projection to a triangular slab, left under… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Varta
Along the eastern ridge for hours and K onwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1
Pevnost východní věž
From the massif upwards. Rock Climbing

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