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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Alp
In the massif near the plateau edge diagonally right and by stemming to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Sella
By the right plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Sella
Through the left part of the plateau wall to the 1st ring, up over the 2nd ring n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Sella
Along the left plateau edge over the ring n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Dubnová
Through the center of the South wall to the hole, up the chimney to the end and directly… Rock Climbing
4
Dubnová
Through the left crack n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Dubnová
Right to the crack and up it n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Dubnová
From the plateau side to the balcony, right to the small crack and n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Sella
Through the center of the plateau wall n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Dubnová
From the South right into the small cave and through the hollow over the ring n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Dubnová
In the North wall diagonally left to the crack and up it n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Dubnová
In the left part of the North wall over the 1st ring to the ledge, left to the edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Dubnová
Along the ledge in the North wall traverse left to the pulpit on the NW edge and further… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kříž
Through the crack of "Buckova cesta" to the balcony and right up the small crack n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Kříž
Through the chimney in the upper wall over the balcony up. Rock Climbing
3
Kříž
Through the tunnel to the valley and up the chimney. Rock Climbing
2
Kříž
Through the crack in the upper wall to the balcony, 3m left and up the chimney. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Taranis
Through the left part of the plateau wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Babička
At the left upper edge through the crack up. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Babička
Up the right upper edge, right over K to the balcony in the valley wall and up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Babička
Up the right upper edge. Rock Climbing
7
Perníková chaloupka
From the start of the "Upper Route" traverse right to the edge to K. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Bílá velryba
Through the middle of the North face over K up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Perníková chaloupka
Southeast face to the 1st K diagonally left to the edge and along it to the 2nd K, up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Perníková chaloupka
Through the window into the valley wall and up the corner. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Bílá velryba
By opposition onto the upper edge and up it. Rock Climbing
6
Chobotnice
Through the middle of the valley wall to the window (large hour-glass, also traversable… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4
Chobotnice
From the right part of the upper wall over the overhang into the crack and up. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Chobotnice
Start by "Wet Route", then diagonally right upwards to the small balcony below the… Rock Climbing
3
Letní masiv
From the tourist path through the gully into the inner chimney and up it to the top. Rock Climbing

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