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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6-
Pohádková věž
Along the right part of the valley wall via 5 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Supík
From the 1st K, direct South traverse left to the edge and along it via 2 K to the summit… Rock Climbing
2
Pohádková věž
From the fore-rock to the rocking stone and overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Supík
From the East, up the chimney, right to the 1st K, then directly up the wall via the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Supík
Briefly through the chimney to the first large ledge, traverse left to K and then… Rock Climbing
3
Pohádková věž
In the South wall via the right crack to the fore-rock, then by the "Normal Route" to the… Rock Climbing
4
Supík
From the fore-rock of "Fairy Tale Tower" traverse the South wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Pohádková věž
From the fore-rock at the SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Pohádková věž
Along the corner crack in the South wall to the ledge, through the tunnel and chimney to… Rock Climbing
6-
Supík
Through the chimney in the valley wall to the ledge, then along the left part of the wall… Rock Climbing
7
Supík
Through the chimney in the valley wall to the ledge and right to the 1st K. Right upwards… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Supík
From "Fairy Tale Tower" to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Malý kyklop
Three jumps from the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Malý kyklop
Along the edge and higher up the wall below the abseil point to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Malý kyklop
From the North, up the crack in the massif (M) to a ledge, along it traverse right to a… Rock Climbing
3
Malý kyklop
Up the chimney from the plateau side to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Věž kmetů
From the North, left behind the edge, up the crack over the 1st bolt/ring, then up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Věž kmetů
From the chimney to the right into the wall and up it over 3 bolts/rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Věž kmetů
From the massif, descend via the chimney opposite the SW edge to a ledge, along it to the… Rock Climbing
7
Věž kmetů
Up the dihedral/groove to the 1st bolt/ring, then along the edge over the 2nd bolt/ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Věž kmetů
Up the chimney between the massif (M) and the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Věž kmetů
From the West, left onto a ledge in the valley face, then further up over the 1st and 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Svantovít
Up the chimney between the massif and the tower, then scramble over/across to the edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Svantovít
From the massif, descend via the chimney and step over to the edge. Rock Climbing
7
Svantovít
From the valley side, up the chimney to a ledge and further along the edge via a bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1
Pavel
From the massif, traverse/step across to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Služebnice Zofe
Up the valley face directly via a crack (protection) into a corner onto a pillar … Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Služebnice Zofe
In the left part of the wall along the cracks to the summit.
2
Pavel
Up the wide chimney (using opposition) to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Oplatky
In the right part of the uphill wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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