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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
4
Falešník
Through the groove in the West wall upwards. Rock Climbing
2
Falešník
Completely on the left in the S wall via a crack to the balcony. Rock Climbing
7
Jochanán
Start via the "Abnormal Route" variant to K. Further along the crack to K and along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Falešnice
Along the West edge upwards. Rock Climbing
7
Jochanán
In the uphill wall to the ledge, along it left into the valley wall to K. Up to the small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Falešník
From the West via a short crack to the balcony and up the wall. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Falešnice
Up the small wall below the rappel upwards. Rock Climbing
4
Falešník
Start via a small crack in the S wall, traverse left and along the "Inclined Route"… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Nová věž
From the massif, jump upwards. Rock Climbing
2
Nová věž
From the massif to the right, mantel upwards, or from a standing position, mantel upwards. Rock Climbing
1
Falešník
On the left in the NW wall through the chimney upwards. Rock Climbing
4
Falešník
Along the NE wall to the balcony and upwards. Rock Climbing
3
Falešník
On the right in the SE wall through the crack-chimney upwards. Rock Climbing
3
Nová věž
From the South through the chimney to the massif and step-across upwards. Rock Climbing
6
Nosál
Along the left uphill (S) rounded edge directly upwards. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Smrž
From the uphill side diagonally right to the balcony to K and along the valley edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Nosál
Along the uphill wall to the fixed anchors and directly upwards. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Dubský stolník (Dauber truchsess)
From the uphill side into the hole, traverse left (fixed anchors), through the gully and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Dědek
Along the west edge n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Esus
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Esus
From the west through the chimney n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Dědek
From the boulder at the W edge, traverse right over the hourglasses to the shelf and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Esus
From the east through the chimney n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Svarog
Through the middle of the SW face over the hourglasses into the overhanging crack and up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Wodan
Along the upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Svarog
Along the upper wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Wodan
Through the indentation in the NE wall to the right to the N edge and along it n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Svarog
From the right upper edge to the right through the wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Mrkvous
Wall below the abseil n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Mrkvous
Through the gully to the right of the route "Bottle Redemption" n. v. Rock Climbing

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