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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6-
Loubikámen
Along the left edge of the north face via 3 rings to the top. (4) Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Wendyšova stěna
Through the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Wendyšova stěna
In the left part of the valley wall via 3 rings directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Wendyšova stěna
In the right part of the face, via the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Wendyšova stěna
In the right part of the face over 2 bolts to the rappel bolt and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Wendyšova stěna
Via the slanted crack and the route "Chimney" to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Wendyšova stěna
Through the middle of the valley wall via 3 rings to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Wendyšova stěna
Through the right part of the face to the 1st and 2nd bolt, from there to the right over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Sušická stěna
Through the middle of the face below the rappel point over 3 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Autobus
Along the right W edge to a bolt and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Autobus
Along the right edge upwards to the slanted ledge, along it to the left to the 1st bolt.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Sušická stěna
Through the right part of the valley face over 3 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Autobus
Along the left edge over 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Sušická stěna
Through the left part of the valley face over 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Autobus
Through the middle of the face upwards to the iron-stained holds and left to a bolt,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Sušická stěna
Through the middle of the east face over a bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Autobus
In the left part of the face, via the crack into the hole, onto the ledge and through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Stromová
To the right of the "Old Route" via the face directly over a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9
Černá stěna
On the upper side, via the face along the east edge over a bolt directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
10
Černá stěna
In the middle of the north (valley) face, via the blunt overhanging edge, over 3 bolts to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Stromová
By traversing from the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Černá stěna
In the right part of the valley face, via the left crack (slings) into the chimney and up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Stromová
Through the chimney between M and the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Stromová
Traverse from the "Old Route" over the second crack into the valley wall and to the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Stromová
Via the crack in the right part of the north face to the turret, then along the NW edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Stromová
Along the NE edge over 2 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Stromová
Via the right west crack to its end, left into the second crack and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Stromová
By crossing over from the plateau massif into the face and to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Šikmá věž
From the saddle, via the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Šikmá věž
From the saddle, via the overhanging NE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing

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