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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Zlý bratr
From the fore-summit at the southern edge left up the wall to the crack, and by it to K,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Zlý bratr
From the fore-summit along the southern edge to the 1st and 2nd K, traverse left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Zlý bratr
Right of the southern edge up the wall to the 1st K, into the corner and by crack under… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Zlý bratr
From K of the original route through the middle of the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Srazová stěna
In the left part of the wall via a fine crack, higher up the wall under an overhang and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Srazová stěna
Up the edge to K and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Zlý bratr
From K of the original route traverse right behind the edge into the crack and up it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Srazová stěna
Up the wall over 5 K's to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Srazová stěna
Middle of the wall via iron holds to the balcony and to the terrace. Rock Climbing
7
Srazová stěna
Up the overhanging corner crack under the overhang, traverse into the wall and on iron… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Srazová stěna
Up the wall in the corner into the chimney and up it to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Srazová stěna
Right in the north side face of the massif, up the chimney to the balcony. Up the crack … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Srazová stěna
Up the arête, further right to K. Up the crack to the balcony and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Srazová stěna
Up the wide crack in the right part of the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Srazová stěna
Up the wall along the arêtes to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Srazová stěna
From 1st K of the "Man and Machine" route to 2nd K and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Srazová stěna
From K left and up the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Srazová stěna
Up the middle of the wall via a slanting crack under a large overhang to K, over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Srazová stěna
Up the adjacent small pillar to its summit, further up the wall over two ledges to K and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Srazová stěna
From the boulder via a slanting crack to the balcony and by a wide crack into the chimney… Rock Climbing
7
Srazová stěna
In the right part of the massif's north side face, up and right to the edge at 1st K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Srazová stěna
From the slope via an iron-stained crack to a ledge and by another crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Srazová stěna
In the right side face of the massif, up the chimney to the balcony. From there over iron… Rock Climbing
3
Srazová stěna
Up the prominent chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Srazová stěna
Up the corner diagonally left to K, up the wall along the edge on iron-stained holds to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Srazová stěna
In the right part of the wall, through a recess onto a small pillar along ledges to 1st K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Sušická věž
Start at the SE edge up the wall to 1st K, then overhang and wall to 2nd K, slightly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Sušická věž
From the fore-rock, traverse to the SE edge and ascend along it. Rock Climbing
7
Sušická věž
Left along the northern edge directly to K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Sušická věž
Start along the left valley edge to a ledge to the 1st bolt. Along the edge briefly left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2

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