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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
4
Orlí hnízdo hlavní vrchol
From the fore-peak near the south face to the SE edge and to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Orlí hnízdo hlavní vrchol
From the space via a short crack to the ledge to K. Up the face along the northeast edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Orlí hnízdo severní vrchol
Along the curved valley edge over 2 K to the north summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Orlí hnízdo severní vrchol
Left of the „Valley Route“ via a crack over a birch tree to the north summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Vítězný sloup
From 1st K via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Orlí hnízdo severní vrchol
From a deep corner on the right in the valley face. Inside the chimney for several meters… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Orlí hnízdo severní vrchol
Right of the „Normal Route“ to the middle summit, via a chimney and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Vítězný sloup
Right of the start of the “Old Route” to “Eagle's Nest” via a wide crack to the balcony … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Vítězný sloup
From „Skála 39. Srazu“, descend along the edge (belayed). Traverse to the opposite edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Vítězný sloup
Through the chimney from the south to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Pitrýsek
By the chimney from the SW to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Pitrýsek
Through the middle of the west wall to K and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
Přeskok
Pitrýsek
From the massif from the NE, traverse to the balcony and lightly to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Vítězný sloup
By stemming between "Skála 39. srazu" and M to K and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Pitrýsek
Through the center of the north face to the ledge and up the face to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Vítězný sloup
From the space between "Pitrýsek" via a wide crack to K and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Pitrýsek
From the massif from the NW, traverse to the balcony in the north face and diagonally… Rock Climbing
4
Pitrýsek
Through the chimney between the NW edge and M to the balcony in the north face and along… Rock Climbing
1
Pitrýsek
By the crack in the east wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Skála 39. srazu
In the north wall by the gully to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Skála 39. srazu
In the valley wall by a crack to the 1st K. Up the wall to the 2nd K, into the sloping… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Pitrýsek
Directly along the SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Pitrýsek
Through the middle of the east wall to the left of the "Old Route" to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Skála 39. srazu
Along the south edge over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Pitrýsek
Through the middle of the south wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Skála 39. srazu
By opposition/stemming between the wall of the "Victory Column" and the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Skála 39. srazu
From an elevated spot on the right in the south wall by the corner crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Skála 39. srazu
Left in the east wall along a sloping ledge left to the edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Skála 39. srazu
By the left crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Skála 39. srazu
From the east behind the small pillar by the gully to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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