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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
3
Větrná bába
By the right chimney between the massif and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Psí masiv
To the right of "Dog's Crack" via the wall over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Věž Ligularia
NE ridge over the steps to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Věž Ligularia
NW face along the gully into the crack and to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Věž Ligularia
North ridge near the grown oak tree to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Věž Ligularia
Overhang to the right of the "Old Route" and up the face to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Věž Ligularia
Valley corner crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Věž Ligularia
Up the face to the right of the "Horse View" route to the ledge (loop), then slightly… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Cestmistr
Through the crack and right along the gully to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Cestmistr
Gully to the left of the pillar to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Věž Ligularia
Valley SW ridge to the ledge and further to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Věž Ligularia
From the SE via crack and chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Věž Ligularia
South ridge to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Cestmistr
On the southeast side, through the center of the pillar via K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Věž Ligularia
Left of the "Old Route" through the center of the face over the overhang and up the face… Rock Climbing
4
Traťmistr
Center of the west face to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Traťmistr
Northwest ridge to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Traťmistr
Along the SE ridge to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Traťmistr
Left of the "Tree Route" from the left into a crack and directly to the fore-summit and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Chárova věž
In the left part of the south wall directly over K upwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Traťmistr
Right on the SW side, up the face to the pine tree to the fore-summit and to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Traťmistr
Through the chimney upwards. Rock Climbing
4
Traťmistr
Along the wall below the abseil ring upwards. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Traťmistr
Short east face to the fore-summit and higher to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Chárova věž
Along the north wall to K and over the overhang upwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Chárova věž
From the north along the blunt valley edge over K and three overhangs upwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Chárova věž
Through the center of the south wall over K upwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Chárova věž
Along the left upper (S) edge directly upwards. Rock Climbing
4
Chárova věž
Along the right upper (E) edge upwards and from right to left around the overhang onto… Rock Climbing
5
Prófa
Through the corner upwards. Rock Climbing

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