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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
7-/7
Čintamani a ptáci
Left of the "Corner Route" up the wall past 3 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Čintamani a ptáci
Left of the "Corner Route" up the wall diagonally to the edge to the bolt. Along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Dlouhá stěna
Up the chimney left of the abseil, higher up right to the 1st bolt, along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Dlouhá stěna
Along the edge and diagonally right to the 1st bolt. Up the wall, left onto the edge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Dlouhá stěna
Through the inner chimney from the North side to the top. (The route is not drawn on the… Rock Climbing
3
Dlouhá stěna
Start deep in the chimney, right up the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Čintamani a ptáci
Up the chimney in the right part of the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Čintamani a ptáci
Up the corner crack, higher up the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Dlouhá stěna
In the left part of the wall, up a narrow chimney past the bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Dlouhá stěna
Up the chimney of the route "Crawling Forbidden" continuously upwards, left to (bolt) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Dlouhá stěna
Through the crack to the left of the route "Slepé střevo" (Blind Gut) n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Dlouhá stěna
Up the corner crack past the bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Dlouhá stěna
Along the route "Spára na půl těla" (Crack for Half Body) to the notch, traverse left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Dlouhá stěna
Up the wall past 2 bolts and right to the 2nd bolt of the route "On the inclined plane"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Dlouhá stěna
Start left of the plumb line of the abseil bolt. Up the wall to the 1st and 2nd bolts,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Dlouhá stěna
Through a fine pillar under the prominent overhanging rib to the 1st K, using the rib to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Dlouhá stěna
Through the broken wall under the overhanging crack and along it n. t. Rock Climbing
5
Dlouhá stěna
Along the edge on the right side of the "Long Wall" 5 m upwards, further by bridging and… Rock Climbing
7
Palcát a stěna palcátu
Left edge of the overhang all the way to the original route. Rock Climbing
7
Palcát a stěna palcátu
Middle of the overhanging wall up to the original route and along it n. t. Rock Climbing
5
Palcát a stěna palcátu
Through a wide chimney between "Dlouhá stěna" (Long Wall) and "Stěna Palcátu" (Mace Wall)… Rock Climbing
6-
Palcát a stěna palcátu
Through the crack under the abseil point over K. n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Palcát a stěna palcátu
Through the chimney between "Stěna Palcátu" (Mace Wall) and "Palcát" (Mace) n. t. Rock Climbing
7
Kóta 317
From the left valley edge to the right onto the balcony and over K through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Kóta 317
Middle of the overhanging valley wall under the overhang to K. Along the crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
3
Palcát a stěna palcátu
Through the left valley chimney n. t. Rock Climbing
4
Palcát a stěna palcátu
To the right of "Palcát" (Mace) along the valley edge over K. n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Buková stěna
To the left in the NW wall upwards along the crack to K. To the left into the gully and n… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Buková stěna
From K. of the original route through the crack n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Kóta 317
Overhanging valley edge over BH, further to K and over BH lightly along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun

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