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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
1
Zadní Maří
From the fore-rock to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Zadní Maří
Through the chimney between the fore-rock and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Jeskynní věž
Overhang from the massif and briefly to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Vyfouknutá
Through the left part of the valley wall over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Věž u poustevny
Along the northern edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Vyfouknutá
Through the middle of the southeast wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Věž u poustevny
From the middle of the plateau wall diagonally left over ledges to the crack and to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Věž u poustevny
Along the eastern edge to the right onto a small ledge and directly to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Věž u poustevny
In the valley wall upwards into the recess and left to the edge. Rock Climbing
6
Vyfouknutá
Through the middle of the valley wall by a prominent dihedral to K and to the right along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Kolotoč
By overflow from the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Kolotoč
Through the chimney between M and the tower to its end and by the original route to the… Rock Climbing
3
Kolotoč
From E to the right valley edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Kolotoč
In the left part of the valley wall over an overhang to K and to the right up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Kolotoč
In the right part of the valley wall over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Balšoj těátr
From the passage in the rear part of the massif, via the right crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Balšoj těátr
To the left of the route "Pepřenka", via the wide falcon's perch crack to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Balšoj těátr
Through the chimney from the rear side of the massif (the other side of the chimney … Rock Climbing
4
Balšoj těátr
In the left part of the massif, to the left of the route "Karel is 700", up the small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Balšoj těátr
From the passage in the rear part of the massif, via the left crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Balšoj těátr
From the right onto the northern edge in the middle part of the massif and along it via 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Balšoj těátr
In the left part of the massif, to the right of the route "Karel is 700", via the corner… Rock Climbing
7
Balšoj těátr
Up the wall via K to a ledge. Along it to the right and via the corner crack (knots) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Balšoj těátr
In the left part of the massif, through the center of the small pillar over a large tip… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Balšoj těátr
In the left part of the massif, to the right of the route "Karel is 700", traverse from… Rock Climbing
6
Balšoj těátr
To the left of the large chimney (the Grand plié route leads to the right) along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Balšoj těátr
Through a wide crack in the middle part of the massif to the right of the "Grand plié"… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Balšoj těátr
In the left part of the massif, from the right to the wide corner crack and up it over… Rock Climbing
3
Balšoj těátr
In the left part of the massif, through the crack-chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Balšoj těátr
Through the crack-chimney to the left of the route "Memory of the Blacksmith" to the top. Rock Climbing

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