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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Dutohlávka
From the uphill side onto the ledge, right onto the edge and along it upwards. Rock Climbing
6
Poštolka
From the East, between the tower and the massif, through a wide chimney and upwards. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
2
Poštolka
Upwards along the uphill face. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
4
Železná brána
Through the middle of the Northwest face into the window, and on the other side… Rock Climbing
1
Poštolka
From the East by a traverse upwards. Rock Climbing
7
Dutohlávka
Along the valley face, over K directly upwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Supí věž
Up the West crack to the edge, traverse diagonally right to the terrace and via the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Supí věž
In the plateau (South) face from the right onto the terrace (loop) and through the left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Supí věž
Along the East edge and to the right up the wall via K directly below the rappel to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Prabába
Up the West face via K to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Supí věž
Variant of the "Plateau Route" to a ledge and left via a small chimney/gully. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Prabába
Along the left valley edge and up the wall via K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Prabába
In the middle of the plateau (South) face via a "hour" (hourglass rock formation)… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Supě
At the right edge of the South face (loop) to the balcony (loop) and along the edge over… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Supí hrádek
To the right of the North chimney, step from the boulder into the wall, diagonally right… Rock Climbing
7
Prabába
In the right part of the North face diagonally left to K, over the overhang into a notch,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Supě
Along the West edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Supě
Up the center of the South face via K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
4
Supí hrádek
From the left into the crack and through it to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Supí hrádek
Up the South chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Supí hrádek
Up the North chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Supí hrádek
Up the right valley (SW) overhanging crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Supí dráp
Via the valley wall over an overhang to the 1st bolt and from the left via the wall over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Supí dráp
Via a crack in the SE wall onto a ledge and via the original route to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Supí dráp
From the upper side left onto a ledge and via a small wall over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
2
Sup
In the left part of the W wall slightly from the right to an indentation and thereby to… Rock Climbing
5
Sup
Along the valley edge of the massif, higher up a small wall over a bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Sup
To the right of the route "Strýček krkavec" over an overhang via a bolt and higher up a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Sup
Via a small pillar in the center of the E wall along a ledge/strip to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Sup
Along the right edge of the E wall via small holds/falconries (slings) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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