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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
2
Nos
Through the upper/plateau chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Nos
Through the valley chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Vylomená
From the inner space through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Vylomená
Through the narrow chimney from the South to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Vylomená
Through the chimney over the overhanging wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Kozlík
Through the wide chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kozlík
From the valley, briefly through the chimney and up the South arête to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Kozlík
On the valley wall through an indistinct indentation to the notch (belay), along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Kozlík
Up the East arête and through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Kozlík
Up the left part of the valley wall, higher up via the rounded edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Nosorožec
From NE along the rounded edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Poslední
In the western wall along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Nosorožec
In the northwest wall via the corner between the buttress and the tower to the balcony… Rock Climbing
3
Poslední
In the left part of the southeast wall to the edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Poslední
Via the chimney between the massif and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Poslední
From the massif from NE by a step-across to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Poslední
Along the eastern, upper edge to the right to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Medvídek
Up the wall below the abseil directly freely upwards. Rock Climbing
3
Medvídek
From the West edge diagonally left with the South wall freely upwards. Rock Climbing
3
Medvídek
Along the West edge directly to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Medvídek
Through the center of the South wall (hourglasses) directly freely upwards (fragile). Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Medvídek
Along the West edge under the head, traverse right to the E edge and up the N small wall… Rock Climbing
7
Kámen mudrců
Up the West wall via K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Kámen mudrců
Through the right part of the valley wall to 1st K and 2nd K, diagonally right upwards to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kámen mudrců
Through the left part of the valley wall via 3 K and the abseil K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Kámen mudrců
Along the right valley edge via 3 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Kámen mudrců
From W via the corner crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Masiv
Through the crack in the E wall via 1st K to the ledge, then further up the wall to 2nd K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kámen mudrců
Through the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Obr
Through the crack over 2 K upwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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