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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
3
Novomanželský masív
Through the chimney, over the clock under the boulder and over it to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Křížová věž
Along the "Western Pilgrimage" route to the 1st K, directly to the holes, up the rib and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Křížová věž
In the right part of the W wall directly over K to the 2nd K of the route "Western… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Křížová věž
Left plateau (SE) edge along the rib under the overhang, right to K and directly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Křížová věž
In the left part of the W wall along the small ribs to the 1st K. Traverse right over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Křížová věž
From the north to the ledge on the NE edge and diagonally left to K in the E wall.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Šohaj
In the right part of the east face, over K and higher, a clock to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Škrhola
From the SW via the edge and by stemming to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Škrhola
Valley (S) crack (loops) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Škrhola
In the S wall via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Škrhola
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Suchar
Via the plateau wall onto the balcony and left along a short crack to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Suchar
From the massif from the southwest by traversing to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Jednička
Through the chimney between the S massif and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Jednička
From "Dvojka" to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Jednička
Via the north face to the left onto the pulpit, slightly left and upwards onto the bench,… Rock Climbing
2
Jednička
Through the chimney between the tower and "Dvojka" to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Jednička
From the massif from the south to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Chrobák
From the massif from the south to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Chrobák
Through the chimney between the S massif and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Lodivod
Through a wide chimney from the east to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Lodivod
Along the E edge in the sloping wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Lodivod
In the W wall from the right to the edge and to the 1st K. Up to the 2nd K, right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Škuner
Through a crack in the W wall into a small cave and to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Škuner
From the massif from S to the right part of the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Škuner
In the right part of the chimney by stemming between M and the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Škuner
Through a narrow valley chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Škuner
From the upper/plateau side through a narrow chimney dividing the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Škuner
Through a narrow chimney between the W edge and M to a ledge, traverse left into a small… Rock Climbing
2
Nos
Through the chimney between the tower and the left upper/plateau block, stepping onto the… Rock Climbing

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