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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Svatojánská věž
Through the upper chimney into the window (hourglass/anchor) and up the upper (NE) wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Svatojánská věž
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Svatojánská věž
Stemming to the N edge, up it and left into the window (hourglass/anchor). Traverse into… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Kanec
Through the middle of the valley (western) wall via K (piton/bolt) to the base (hourglass… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Kanec
From the massif, step over to the bench and through the middle of the upper (eastern)… Rock Climbing
3
Kanec
From the upper side to the northwest edge and along the crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kanec
Along the valley's southern edge over 2 K (pitons/bolts) to the bench and via the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Měsíčník
Via the East edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kanec
From the massif, step over to the bench, left to the shelf and up the southern wall over… Rock Climbing
2
Kanec
From the massif, step over onto the ledge and via the southeast edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Měsíčník
Via the West wall to K, from there with dynamic climbing to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Měsíčník
Directly via the East small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Měsíčník
In the North (valley) wall via the crack and wall over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Měsíčník
Via the left part of the SE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Slunečník
Along the right upper edge over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Slunečník
By the upper (SE) wall n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Slunečník
To the left of the route "Houpi hou" by wall and edge over K (Klettersteig/climbing route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Žába
Through the middle of the S wall n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Žába
By the NW edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Žába
Through the middle of the valley wall n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Žába
By the SW edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Žába
By the wall to the right of the SE edge n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Žába
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Žába
Through the middle and higher NW part of the chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Hydra
Along the southern edge upwards to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Hydra
Along the left upper wall upwards to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Hydra
Along the upper wall upwards to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Penis
North wall and from the right n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Penis
Valley wall (curved edge) n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Penis
Plateau wall between the edges n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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