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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
3
Oříšek
Through a wide chimney between the Massif and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Oříšek
From the upper side through the chimney to the large hourglass and up the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Varan
In the left part of the S face, from the block, traverse over to the kinked crack and… Rock Climbing
6
Varan
In the right part of the S face, up the wall through the hole to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Varan
Through the left part of the upper face to the edge and to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Varan
Through a prominent upper crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Varan
Through the valley crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Varan
In the middle of the chimney between the Massif and the tower to the end and via overhang… Rock Climbing
1
Mařenka
By traversing from the east to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Varan
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Mařenka
Through the chimney between the massif and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Koza
Via a crack in the valley wall to K and via the wall to the top (approach also via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Koza
From the south in the left part via a crack to the ledge to K, via the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4
Kráva
To the right along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Kráva
Via the S wall to K, into holes and via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Kráva
Via the SW edge to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Kráva
Via the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Kráva
Via the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Kráva
Jump from the massif n.v. Rock Climbing
7
Kráva
From the base of the "Left Western" chimney to the left into the S wall and diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Kráva
From the base of the "Left West Chimney" left to the edge, by crack to the 1st Piton, by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Kráva
From the large boulder in the left West chimney, traverse left into the valley wall and… Rock Climbing
5
Kráva
From the start of the "Right West Chimney" diagonally left to the upper end of the "Left… Rock Climbing
1
Kráva
By chimney n.v. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
4
Kráva
By chimney n.v. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Pidižvík
Straight up the wall below the abseil point n.v. Rock Climbing
6
Pidižvík
From the boulder via a crack to the holes (hourglass) and another crack n.v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Pidižvík
In the north wall diagonally left to the edge and along it n.v. Rock Climbing
4
Pidižvík
NW edge n.v. Rock Climbing
3
Vlčí doupě
From the valley side through the chimney between the massif and the tower n.v. Rock Climbing

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