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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
1
Hlaváček
Up the short wall to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Laid wall
2
Hrouda
By a step-across from the massif and further up. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
7
Homoláč
Up the narrow W wall for 5m, right (thread-through feature) to the edge and along it to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Vertical wall
1
Homoláč
Along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun Laid wall
3
Hrouda
Along the plateau wall and further up. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Laid wall
6
Hrouda
Through the overhanging indentation in the right part of the valley wall (plate) to a… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Hrouda
From the ravine between the edge and the tower, a short traverse right, upwards into a… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Laid wall
4
Hrouda
In the West wall 3 m upwards to a horizontal notch, through it 8 m left and further up. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Laid wall
5
Křemenáč
Along the smooth East wall over K and further up. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
4
Křemenáč
Along the SE edge and further up. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Laid wall
3
Křemenáč
Along the South wall directly further up. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Laid wall
5
Křemenáč
Along the overhanging NW edge into the West wall to K and directly further up. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
3
Křemenáč
In the overhanging South wall to sharp holds on the edge of the small balcony, onto the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
2
Křemenáč
Over a short overhang into the chimney in the West wall and further up. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
3
Křemenáč
Along the NE edge and further up. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
2
Křemenáč
Along the South wall and left further up. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Laid wall
2
Paděra
Under the overhang to the left and further up. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Laid wall
3
Paděra
From the plateau side into a horizontal notch and further up. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4
Paděra
Along the wall to the left of the South chimney to the corner, through it under a… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Laid wall
3
Paděra
Along the plateau wall under the overhang, right into the South wall to a ledge and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Laid wall
2
Paděra
Through the chimney in the middle of the South wall to a lower block and from there… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Laid wall
4
Paděra
By a prominent crack in the left part of the East wall to a ledge, right to another crack… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Laid wall
4
Paděra
Along ledges to the SE edge, along it to a lower block and further up. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4
Paděra
From the South chimney, left to the ledge and from there by a rounded edge to a lower… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Laid wall
2
Paděra
Via the chimney in the North wall and over two steps to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
4
Paděra
From the South chimney, traverse left along the ledge in the overhanging wall, then… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Laid wall
4
Paděra
Via the gully-crack in the middle of the North wall onto the ledge and over two steps to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
1
Paděra
From the upper side left via the small chimney and over the step to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Laid wall
5
Solnička
Through the middle of the upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
3
Solnička
Through the right part of the upper wall along the small crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall

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