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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
5
Vábnička
From the eastern edge, traverse along the ledge to the northern edge and then over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Vábnička
Through the middle of the valley face over 2 anchors (K) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Vábnička
Via the western edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Vábnička
Via the northern edge directly to the ledge of the original route. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Vábnička
Through the chimney between the tower and the massif, higher up via the 'Normal Route' to… Rock Climbing
3
Dubisko
From the southeast fore-rock through the middle of the small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Dubisko
Via the right upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Dubisko
Via the upper face to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Dubisko
Via the left upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Kuliferda
From the NW corner under the overhang, via the crack to the fore-summit (protection) and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kuliferda
Via the crack in the narrow valley wall to the fore-summit, via the valley slab over the… Rock Climbing
6
Kuliferda
Through the middle of the West wall over the bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Kuliferda
Via the right summit edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Kuliferda
Through the middle of the summit slab and slightly left to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Souček
By a straddling chimney from the uphill side n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Klínek
In the north wall from the left to K and upwards over the overhang n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Tlustý kuchař
In the left part of the S wall over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Tlustý kuchař
In the right part of the S wall over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Tlustý kuchař
Along the western edge over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Tlustý kuchař
By the northern crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Tlustý kuchař
Along the left upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Zobák
Through the crack in the center of the valley wall to the balcony, to K and through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Zobák
In the left part of the valley wall through the crack and directly via the blunt edge… Rock Climbing
4
Zobák
In the right part of the upper wall diagonally right to the edge and to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Zobák
Through the left part of the northeast wall to the ledge and to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Kamenická stěna
Up the Sokolík (chimney/gully) in the N wall to the 1st K. Traverse right to the 2nd K… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
9
Kamenická stěna
In the right part of the left massif, 5m to the right of the "Stonecutter's Crack"…
6
Kamenická stěna
Start right behind the SW edge. Traverse diagonally left to a small balcony and over K to…
3
Kamenická stěna
Up the chimney from the overhanging yellow wall to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
7
Kamenická stěna
In the left part of the large W wall of the massif, up the small wall to a prominent…

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