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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Démon
Along the NW side via 2 bolts, free climbing. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Démon
From the north to the bolt, up the wall, free climbing. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Démon
From the valley side, up the wall via 2 bolts, free climbing. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Démon
Chimney from SW upwards to ring, then by face to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Démon
From the east between the massif and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Démon
Upper edge to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Démon
From the east, from the massif, drop onto the shelf and to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Démon
From the east, a step-over from the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Hodinář
SW edge over hour-glasses to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Hodinář
Center of the NE face 2 m right of the route 'Watchmaker's Shop' to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Hodinář
From the NE face over numerous hour-glasses and a birch, then right to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Hodinář
Upper edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Hodinářský učeň
Via the West edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Skořepka
In the Northwest wall along a slanting ledge to the eyelets/thread-throughs, upwards to… Rock Climbing
6
Skořepka
From the Southeast via the chimney between M and the tower to a ledge with numerous… Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Skořepka
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Skořepka
From the Northwest via the chimney between M and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Skořepka
From the Southeast via the chimney in the corner between M and the tower, then further… Rock Climbing
?
Mostková
From the footbridges of the park path, descend to the tower and jump/cross over to the… Rock Climbing
2
Osladič
From the upper/plateau side, traverse over the chimney and briefly to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Pivovar
Via the chimney around the summit block/box to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Pivovar
Via the crack in the left part of the upper/plateau wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Pivovar
From right or left onto the balcony in the West face of the main block of the tower via… Rock Climbing
1
Pivovar
From the West, passage through the chimney to the sloping terrain in the East wall and by… Rock Climbing
3
Pivovar
Via the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Pivovar
Between the eastern cairn and the main block of the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Soudek
Along the plateau edge to the ledge, traverse right and along the gully over the bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
1
Pivovar
From the massif from the NE to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Soudek
Along the left part of the plateau wall over the bolt/ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Soudek
Along the right part of the NW wall over the big hourglass to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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