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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
4
Kentaur
Through the notch in the North wall, diagonally right to the balcony to the anchor and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Kentaur
In the North wall diagonally right over 2 anchors to the balcony to the anchor of the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Kentaur
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Kentaur
Up the SW wall over the anchor into the crack and along it (hourglass) to the end of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kentaur
Left onto the SW edge and along it over 2 anchors to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Cizí věžička
Through the center of the East wall over (anchor) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Lovecká věž
From the massif, a jump to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Lovecká věž
Descent from the massif, over the overhang to a step and to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Lovecká věž
From the center of the plateau wall along a ledge right behind the edge to the hourglass… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Lovecká věž
In the left part of the South wall along a blunt edge to the ledge and left along the… Rock Climbing
6
Lovecká věž
Through the gully in the center of the valley wall to the ledge (hourglass) and over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Lovecká věž
Along the right valley edge through a hole to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Lovecká věž
Approach 4 m left of the "Normal Route" directly up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Posed
Through the crack in the north face via K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Lovecká věž
Middle of the plateau wall via a short delicate crack/chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Posed
From the massif, a traverse/step-across to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Posed
Via the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Posed
Approach via the right side wall, then a wide chimney between the tower and the massif,… Rock Climbing
3
Posed
Through the corner in the valley (SW) wall to the balcony and up the chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Posed
In the right part of the valley wall, via the iron-rich wall to the ledge and through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7
Kladivoun
Directly up the overhanging northwest plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
9
Kladivoun
Along the southern valley edge via hourglasses and K overhang into the gully and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Kladivoun
Along the eastern valley edge (hourglasses) and up the wall directly below the rappel… Rock Climbing
4
Kladivoun
Via the slabby west face to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kladivoun
Through the gully in the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Kovadlinka
Through the right part of the north face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Kovadlinka
Through the left part of the north face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kovadlinka
Via the wall below the abseil to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Kovadlinka
Through the right part of the south face along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Solnohrad
Left on the valley wall, along the edge over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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