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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
4
Solnohrad
Up the plateau crack n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Solnohrad
Up the valley wall diagonally right n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Solnohrad
From the attachment on the south wall, step over to the SW edge and along it to the… Rock Climbing
4
Solnohrad
Start at the left valley edge briefly upwards, traverse to the SW edge and original route… Rock Climbing
2
Železná jehla
From the plateau side over the rise to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Troják
Through the crack and then a narrow chimney over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Troják
Along the edge over 2 K into the chimney and up it to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Troják
Start via the route "Iron Chimney", then right to the 1st K, through the indentation to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Troják
From the N, along a gentle rock pinnacle to K onto the sloping slab. Traverse right into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Troják
Overhanging rib over K into the chimney and up it to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Troják
Through the corner and the rock pinnacle to its end at K and left up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Troják
In the right part of the wall of the right block to the rock pinnacle (1st K) and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Troják
In the NW wall, up several meters through the corner, left into the chimney and up it to… Rock Climbing
9
Stěna bivaku 1
On the first (right) block of the Bivouac Wall by the left part of the W wall (1st bolt),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
7
Dešťová stěna
Through the center of the west wall to the side block over holes (hourglasses) to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Dešťová stěna
By the east wall to the side block over the bolt into a notch and through it to the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Dešťová stěna
To the left of the "Small Corner" by the wall to the left to the edge, along it over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Dešťová stěna
To the right of the right corner by the wall to the 1st bolt and 2nd bolt. Up to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Dešťová stěna
Through the center of the W wall to the 1st bolt and 2nd bolt, traverse left behind the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Dešťová stěna
By the left corner over the bolt to the ledge to the pine tree and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Dešťová stěna
From the north by the right corner (bolt) and overhanging crack into the chimney and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Dešťová stěna
By the right edge over 4 bolts and the abseil bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Dešťová stěna
Through the center of the W wall to a gully, through it over the 1st bolt to a ledge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Vlčice
On the left block by a crack over the 1st bolt to the ledge, up to the 2nd bolt, further… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Vlčice
In the left part by the wall and chimney over the 1st bolt to the ledge, to the right by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Vlčice
Completely to the right onto the block, up the wall along the edge via a bolt, technical… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Vlčice
From the corner between the blocks to the left, up the wall via a bolt, technical… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Vlčice
Through the middle of the W wall via 2 bolts to the rappel bolt and then technical… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Vlčice
In the right part of the W wall, via a crack to a ledge, left up to the 1st bolt. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Démon
In the valley wall, a crack and up the wall via 2 bolts, free climbing. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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