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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
2
Invalidovna
By chimney in the right part of the massif n. t. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
6
Železná stěna
By crack under the break to 1. K, then by crack over 2 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Železná stěna
Up the north face of the fourth block over 2 K to a ledge, then by chimney n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Železná stěna
By chimney n. t. Rock Climbing
7
Železná stěna
In the E face of the fourth block by a crack to K, then to a flake and by it n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Železná stěna
By rock teeth to 1. K, then up the face over 2 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Železná stěna
By chimney in the fourth block n. t. Rock Climbing
3
Železná stěna
By chimney between the second and third block n. t. Rock Climbing
6-
Železná stěna
Through the middle of the second block over 3 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Železná stěna
To the third block, briefly along the edge, then diagonally left through a hollow over 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Železná stěna
Through the corner over a bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Železná stěna
Along the NE edge of the second block over 1. K into a small cave on the right over 2. K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Železná stěna
Through the left part of the East wall of the first block over 3 bolts and the abseil… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Železná stěna
Through the crack in the East wall of the first block over 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Železná stěna
Completely to the right along the edge and later up the wall over 3 bolts and the abseil… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Železná stěna
Through the crack in the North wall of the first block over 2 bolts, higher up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Mravenečník
In the valley wall, a wide crack, higher up the wall n.v. Rock Climbing
4
Mravenečník
Through the middle of the plateau wall n.v. Rock Climbing
6-
Mravenečník
In the right part of the E wall over K n.v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Mravenečník
Along the plateau edge for friction n.v. Rock Climbing
2
Mravenečník
From the plateau chimney left to the ledge and around the valley edge n.v. Rock Climbing
6
Podkova
Through the right part of the wall over K into the crack and through it over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Podkova
Through the left part of the wall over 3 K and rappelling K n.v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Podkova
From the massif, traverse n.v. Rock Climbing
6
Koníček
Through the center of the NW wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Danger Vertical wall
6
Malý vůz
Through the center of the West wall over 2 K and a rappel K to the end of the route. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Píchův kámen
Up the plateau wall diagonally right into the notch, traverse the NW wall to the balcony… Rock Climbing
3
Kentaur
Through the chimney between the massif and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Kentaur
Through the notch in the North wall, diagonally right to the balcony to the anchor and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Kentaur
In the right part of the North wall to the crack, along it over 2 anchors to the end and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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