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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6-
Pegas
Up the wall to the right of the valley corner over hour-glasses to the 1st K, from there… Rock Climbing
6-
Pegas
In the left part of the east wall over 3 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pegas
In the middle of M, to the right of the route "Long Chimney" over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Hromnice
In the right part of the West wall along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Hromnice
From the north up the wall to the ledge (hour-glass), up the wall to K and left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Hromnice
Through the middle of the West wall over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Pegas
In the right part of the east wall over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Hromnice
To the left of the "East Route" (crack) through the middle of the small wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Hromnice
In the right part of the East wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Hromnice
By the crack in the right part of the valley wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Hromnice
By the crack in the middle of the East wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Vánoční věž
Through the crack in the valley face of the Massif to the right of the chimney upwards,… Rock Climbing
1
Hromnice
From the massif easily by jumping to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Vánoční věž
From the Massif, descend to the balcony and by stepping across to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Hromnice
Up the chimney between M and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Vánoční věž
Through the middle of the East face via a piton to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Vánoční věž
Through the chimney between the Massif and the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Býk
Through the notch in the plateau wall to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Býk
Up the middle of the west wall over the 'hodiny' (hourglass rock formation) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Býk
Through the right part of the valley wall over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Býk
Through the middle of the overhanging east face to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Býk
Through the left part of the valley wall over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Býk
Up the chimney from the upper side, via an overhang to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Bizon
Through the right part of the left block over 2 pitons and further left to the abseil… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Bizon
Center of the left block's wall to the 1st piton, up and along the edge over the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Bizon
In the left part of the right block via the Falcon's Crack to the 1st piton, left and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Náhrobní kámen
Along the edge to the right of the boulder to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Náhrobní kámen
Through the gully in the left part of the valley wall over a piton to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Náhrobní kámen
In the right part of the valley wall over a piton to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Náhrobní kámen
From the boulder on the plateau side to the top. Rock Climbing

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