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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
3
Stěna pod bivakem
Up the crack in the center of the W wall of the 2nd block M to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Stěna pod bivakem
Along the S edge of the 2nd block M over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Velbloud
Through the wall to the crack (K) and through it over the clock n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Velbloud
Along the bottom edge of the left block over 4 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Velbloud
In the left part of the left block M, over 2 K into a recess and through it n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Velbloud
Briefly along the wall to the left of the left block M to K, from there into an widening… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Velbloud
Through the corner chimney over K n. t. Rock Climbing
5
Velbloud
In the right part of the wall, through the crack that turns into a chimney over 2 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Velbloud
Along the bottom edge of the right block over 4 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Bobřík
In the right part of the wall, via K to the rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Bobřík
Through the center of the wall, via K to the rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Bobřík
Through the chimney in the right part of the massif Rock Climbing Vertical wall
4
Hrobka
From the east, up a crack-chimney n. t. Rock Climbing
5
Hrobka
In the right part of the E wall, through a recess to the right to the edge and along it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Hrobka
In the west wall of the left, detached block M, up a crack and chimney across K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Hrobka
Through the middle of the downhill wall across 2 K to a balcony and then up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Hrobka
Through the middle of the downhill wall across 4 K and the rappel K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Hrobka
Alternately along the right downhill edge across 2 K to the rappel K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Vánoční masiv
Via a crack in the right part of the E face of M over an hourglass and rappelling K n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Unavená
From the gorge between the massif and the tower along the ledge traverse left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Unavená
Through a wide, bell-shaped closing chimney over K to the summit (approach also possible… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6
Gemma
Through the wall into the crack (K) and up it and so on. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Unavená
On the ridge of the summit. Rock Climbing Laid wall
3
Kajmano
Up the chimney at the beginning of the valley wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Pegas
By the crack in the middle of the valley wall diagonally right over the balcony to K and… Rock Climbing
7
Pegas
Along the left edge of the valley chimney over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Pegas
By the crack to the left of the "To the Floor" route to the end of K. Up the sloping slab… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Pegas
In the left part of the massif over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Pegas
Up the chimney in the middle of M to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Pegas
In the left part of the east wall over 3 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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