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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
7
Severní bašta
In the right part of the V wall, passing K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Severní hradba
In the right part of the V wall, passing 2 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Severní hradba
Up the sloping west wall to the right of the edge into a broken chimney and up it, n. t.
6-
Severní hradba
In the left part of the lower wall, passing 2 K and a rappelling K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Severní hradba
Up the downhill wall along the right downhill edge, over 2 K, n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Severní hradba
Via a prominent chimney in the right part of the downhill wall, n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Strážnice
Through the center of the wall, over K, n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Severní hradba
Via a wide chimney in the right part of the massif, n. t. Rock Climbing
6-
Severní hradba
In the right part of the wall, by a hand crack to the 1st K, upwards to the right, over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Severní hradba
To the left of "Gothic", up the wall over 2 K and a rappelling K, n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Strážnice
Through the crack between the main M and the adjacent tower in the E wall, n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Strážnice
Through the center of the E wall, over 2 K, n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Strážnice
Through the center of the N wall, over 2 K, n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Strážnice
Via a crack in the E wall to the 1st K, slightly to the right to the 2nd K, and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Strážnice
Along the right edge of the N wall, over 2 K, n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Strážnice
Through the right part of the NW wall, over K, n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Strážnice
Up the west wall, over 2 K, n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Strážnice
Through the crack between the main massif and the adjacent tower on the W wall, n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Strážnice
Via a left-slanting crack over (slings), n. t. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
7
Strážnice
Via a distinct crack along the lower edge of the N wall of the adjacent M to K (sling… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Strážnice
Through the center of the N wall of the middle block M, over 2 K, n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Strážnice
Along the crack in the center of the N wall of the adjacent M to K (to the right of the… Rock Climbing
7
Strážnice
Through the left part of the NW wall of the main M, over 2 K, n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Strážnice
In the NW wall, through a crack-chimney in the corner, n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Strážnice
Up the NW wall of the main M into a crack, and along it, n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Strážnice
In the W wall, to the left of "Western Gully," via a chimney to K and a wide crack, n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Strážnice
Through the center of the NW wall of the main M, over 2 K, n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Strážnice
In the W wall, through a gully, over K, n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Strážnice
To the right of the route "Cesta od hradu" over K to the abseiling K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Strážnice
In the right part of the W wall of the first block M, over K and the rappelling K, n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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