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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6-
Fénix
In the middle of the left part of the wall, slightly left to the 1st bolt, then along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Fénix
In the right part of the valley-side wall, up the wall passing a bolt into the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Hladomorna
In the middle of the valley-side wall, passing 2 bolts to the rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Hladomorna
In the left part of the valley-side wall, follow the diagonal crack to a bolt. Left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Hladomorna
At the end of the left part of M, up the chimney in the corner under the wedged boulder,… Rock Climbing
6-
Hladomorna
In the left part of M to the adjacent block, up the overhanging wall passing 2 bolts to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Hladomorna
Left side of the pillar, passing 2 bolts to the pillar to the rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Hladomorna
In the left part, up the wall passing 3 bolts to the rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Hladomorna
Up the wall into the crack, follow it to the top of the pillar to the rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Hladomorna
Through the middle of the lower wall of the pillar via 3 bolts onto the pillar to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Hladomorna
Through the prominent crack-chimney in the lower wall via 2 bolts to the anchor point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Hladomorna
To the left of the "Torture Chamber" route, through the wall and the crack via 2 bolts… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Hladomorna
Along the left edge of the right lower wall via 2 bolts, traverse to the left behind the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Hladomorna
In the middle of the lower wall between the prominent crack-chimney and the right lower… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Zbrojnice
Through the honeycombs in the left part of the wall via 2 bolts to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Zbrojnice
At the end of the left part of the wall, via the 1st bolt into the hole (hourglass), then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Zbrojnice
At the beginning of the left part of the wall, along indistinct steps to the 1st bolt, to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Zbrojnice
To the right of the "Black Friday" route, via the overhang and the wall through 2 bolts… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Zbrojnice
At the end of the left part of the wall, through the break to the bolt and the corner to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Zbrojnice
Through the middle of the wall via 3 bolts to the anchor point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Zbrojnice
Through the middle of the left part of the wall via 3 bolts to the anchor point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Zbrojnice
In the middle of the wall, from the left along the edge to the 1st bolt, to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Zbrojnice
Along the left edge of the lower wall, through 2 bolts to the ledge, from there to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Zbrojnice
Through the crack between the right and left part of the wall via a bolt to the anchor… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Zbrojnice
Between the "Sabre" and "Little Sabre" routes via 4 bolts to the anchor point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Zbrojnice
Through the middle of the right part of the wall via 3 bolts and a rappel bolt to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Zbrojnice
Through the middle of the left part of the wall via 2 bolts to the ledge, from there via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Zbrojnice
In the right part of the wall, the lower wall, along a prominent edge, through 3 bolts to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Zbrojnice
To the left of the right edge of "Damocles Sword" through the wall (slings) via 2 bolts… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Zbrojnice
In the left part of the West wall, through 2 bolts into the crack and through it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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