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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
4
Deska
In the left part of the south face via a chimney n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Deska
Through the right part (west) of the valley face via 2 rings n. t. Rock Climbing
6-
Deska
By the south face along the chimney crack to the 1st ring, then face climbing directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Deska
By the eastern edge, higher up via the groove n. t. Rock Climbing
4
Větrník
By the northeast face n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Větrník
By the valley edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Větrník
By the southwest face n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Větrník
By the upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Myš
Left part of the uphill wall to the edge and along it n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Myš
Left part of the downhill wall past K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Myš
Center of the uphill wall directly n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Myš
Right part of the uphill wall to the balcony and n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Strážce Zámeckého vrchu
Center of the east wall past K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Housenka
Left part of the downhill (S) wall past the clock n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Housenka
Center of the downhill wall past 3 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Housenka
Left part of the downhill wall past 3 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Housenka
Directly from the valley, left edge past K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Housenka
Right part of the downhill wall past two o'clock and 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Housenka
Center of the downhill wall past 2K and ten o'clock n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Housenka
Right part of the downhill wall n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Housenka
By the South edge over the clock n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Housenka
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Housenka
By the chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Palec
Through the left part of the upper edge to the ledge to the abseiling K and by standing… Rock Climbing
7
Palec
By the valley edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Palec
By the right upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Malíček
By the upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Malíček
From the upper side to the shelf and further left n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Malíček
Through the right part of the East wall to the valley edge and over it past K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Malíček
Through the east wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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