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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
2
Křestní věž
Under the overhang along two cracks n. v. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Laid wall
1
Křestní věž
From the east by chimney n. v. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Laid wall
5
Jehla u Hvězdy
Briefly through the wall to the top of the pillar to the anchor. To the right to the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Čapí hnízdo
In the right part of the northern wall through the crack and the wall over an anchor a.s… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Čapí hnízdo
In the center of the northern wall into the crack and up it a.s.l. Rock Climbing
3
Čapí hnízdo
In the left part of the northern wall through the chimney and the wall a.s.l. Rock Climbing
6
Čapí hnízdo
NE edge over an anchor a.s.l. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Čapí hnízdo
In the center of the valley wall along the crack over the overhang and through the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Čapí hnízdo
To the right of the "Black and White" route along the small corner to the bulge, from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Čapí hnízdo
In the valley wall from the block through the wall over 2 anchors a.s.l. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Čapí hnízdo
In the right part of the northern wall diagonally to the right to the edge and along it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Čapí hnízdo
Skipping from M a.s.l. Rock Climbing
3
Čapí hnízdo
Through the chimney (using opposition technique) between M and the tower m.a.s.l. Rock Climbing
3
Čapí hnízdo
Corner in the middle of the upland wall a.s.l. Rock Climbing
3
Čapí hnízdo
Left part of the upland wall, left to the S edge and along it a.s.l. Rock Climbing
6-
Masiv u štěněte (Psí bouda)
Through the right part of the SE wall to the top. Rock Climbing Danger Vertical wall
3
Vánoční věž
To the left of "Old Route" through the small wall n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Vánoční věž
Through the wall to the left of "Valley Crack" over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Vánoční věž
To the right of "Old Route" through the wall, higher up the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Vánoční věž
Through the crack in the valley wall n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Vánoční věž
From SW through the depression n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Šimon
Through the center of the upper wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Šimon
Through the right part of the upper wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Šimon
Over the overhang from the NW foreland n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Šimon
Through the crack in the S wall to the edge (clock) and along it n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Šimon
Up the valley wall into the hole, to the right to K and n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Šimon
Through the chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Šimon
From the massif, from (S) overhang n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Kejklíř
From the massif, hop n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Kejklíř
Western (valley) chimney to the ledge, S wall n. v. Rock Climbing

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