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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
2
Zbojník
From the plateau edge slightly left to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Zbojník
Through the chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Pižmoň
Through the center of the east wall to the oblique crack and to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Pižmoň
Downhill crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Pižmoň
In the left part of the east wall, briefly through a chimney and to the right to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Pižmoň
On the southwest wall 3 m from the right edge up to the ledge and left to K, then to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Pižmoň
In the left part of the SW wall into the crack (K) and up it to the balcony. Inclined…
4
Pižmoň
Through the chimney to the route "Half man, half animal" and that to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Železná stěna
Through a crack in the left part of the wall to its end, left onto a shelf, up to K, over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Železná stěna
Through the middle of the wall over K, straight to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Železná stěna
Completely left along the crack to its end and along the ridge to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Železná stěna
In the right part of the wall, to the right of the boulder along the crack after numerous… Rock Climbing
3
Železná stěna
In the right part, to the right of "Děravé cesty" by the indistinct edge to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Železná stěna
From the boulder straight over the overhang (K) and the vertical slab to the pulpit and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Železná stěna
From the boulder upwards, left into the crack, upwards to the pulpit and to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Soběrad
Through the middle of the West wall, diagonally left to the balcony and by the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Soběrad
To the left of the "Through the window" route, slightly to the right of the fall line of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Malá železná stěna
Through the middle of the North wall over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Malá železná stěna
In the right part of the North wall over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Běch (Marderstein)
In the left part of the East wall, diagonally left to the crack (knot), diagonally right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4
Brusenská věž
From the upper side to the right behind the edge into the crack above sea level. Rock Climbing
4
Brusenská věž
From the SE edge traverse left through the wall under the crack, up to the balcony and to… Rock Climbing
4
Řibochovská věž
Northeast edge above sea level. Rock Climbing
2
Řibochovská věž
South wall n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Skleněná kulička
Left part of the plateau wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Líná žába
NE edge or by a crack n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Mákusovka (Babylónská věž)
Along the left upper edge to a balcony (K) and n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Visutá zahrada
Through the middle of the east face to a ring (K) and straight up n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6
Visutá zahrada
Northeast edge over a ring (K) n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7
Visutá zahrada
On the left in the north face to a large hole, to the right to a ring (K) and up the face… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1

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