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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
Roklice a Loubenský potok 1272 routes Kokořín Valley 1140 routes Planý důl 904 routes Rač 839 routes Obrok 818 routes Mšeno 611 routes Beškov 317 routes Blatečky 313 routes Vlhošť a Stříbrný vrch 305 routes Doksy 302 routes Vidim 279 routes Česká Lípa 265 routes Blíževedly 220 routes Dražejov and Nedvězí 205 routes Chudolazy 199 routes Želízy and Tupadly 195 routes Osinalice 189 routes Dolní Zimoř 172 routes Vlkov 164 routes Tubož 162 routes Úštěk 139 routes Šemanovice 139 routes Moon Valley 128 routes Popelov 127 routes Nové Osinalice 127 routes Hradčanské stěny 102 routes Zakšín 99 routes Houska 81 routes Skalská tabule 78 routes Nový Berštejn 33 routes
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7
Kejklíř
NW edge over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Kejklíř
From the ledge near the S wall into the small wall and the center n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Šimon
From the massif, jump n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Kejklíř
Upper crack n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Kejklíř
Along the left upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Houbařský kámen
Left part of the downhill wall via K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Houbařský kámen
Through the chimney on the right to the ledge and via the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Houbařský kámen
Through the chimney into the crack and through it n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Houbařský kámen
Through the center of the downhill wall via K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Houbařský kámen
Left edge n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Houbařský kámen
Jump from the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Velbloud
From the massif, with two jumps n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Velbloud
From the Northeast, through the left chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Velbloud
Through the Northeast face over 2 K to the upper peak. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Velbloud
From the Northeast, through the right chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Velbloud
Along the crack in the left part of the valley wall to K, and slightly right along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Velbloud
Through the crack in the center of the valley wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Velbloud
From the West, between the lower and upper peaks n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Velbloud
From the West, through a chimney between M and the upper peak n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Velbloud
Through the center of the West face of the upper peak, along the rib over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Krvavá koruna
From the foothills, a jump n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Yetti
From South through the corner crack over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Yetti
In the valley (West) wall, through the crack over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Yetti
Through the crack in the center of the uphill wall n. v. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Kameník
Left of "Right uphill edge" directly by the wall n. v. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
4
Kuní věž
In the right part of the upper wall, up the smooth wall n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Kuní věž
From the S edge, left along the ramp under the crack and up it n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Kuní věž
Along the south edge n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Kuní věž
From the upper side, along the ledge to the right and then up the crack n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Kuní věž
Near the right upper edge, up the gully to the right to the edge and up it n. v. Rock Climbing

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