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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
5
Májová
Up the northwestern edge over the ring n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Májová
Up the left upland (SW) edge n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Májová
Along the SE edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Májová
Straight across the appendage to the balcony and via the original route n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Májová
From the upland side to the appendix and left n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Bažiňák
To the right of the Normal Route, using a stem to the crack and its n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
2
Bažiňák
From the massif jump over n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Bažiňák
On the right part of the S wall over the overhang to the 1st K, directly to the 2nd K,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7/7+
Bažiňák
On the left part of the lower wall over 2 K to the ledge and right n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Bažiňák
In the left part of the lower wall over 2 K, right into the crack and n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8
Bažiňák
Under the rappel over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7
Bažiňák
On the North wall along the left edge over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Bažiňák
To the left of the route, Lower chimney with a crack to the end and then up the wall past… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Bažiňák
From the 2nd K of the Humus route straight (loop) n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Bažiňák
Through the middle of the left part of the lower wall to the 1st K, then into the small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Bažiňák
From the 3rd K of the Route of the Five Stings to the left to the pine tree and n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Bažiňák
To the right of the lower chimney, by positioning yourself in the middle of the wall and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Bažiňák
Through the lower chimney n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Bažiňák
Through the crack in the right part of the valley wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
6
Bažiňák
In the right part of the wall over 2 K into the cave, overhang to the crack (loop) and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Bažiňák
Completely right at the edge of the valley wall diagonally left to the 1st K, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Bažiňák
Through the upper and later inner chimney n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
5
Putna
Start over the overhang into the left part of the NE wall to K. Wall to a shelf and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Putna
From the higher part of the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Putna
Valley wall slightly diagonally to the right to K and straight n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Putna
Over the overhang to the wall under the abseil to K and straight n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Putna
Through the chimney along the right upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Putna
Open crack n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Zbojník
Descent and jump from the massif n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Zbojník
Valley wall along the left edge across K directly n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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