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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
4
Hradiště
Far left, in the left part of the upland wall, climb a recess. Rock Climbing
2
Hradiště
In the middle of the upland wall, climb into a crack and up it. Rock Climbing
3
Hradiště
To the left of the 'Upland Route', climb to a flake and up. Rock Climbing
2
Hradiště
In the left part of the upland wall, from a small cave, climb up a chimney. Rock Climbing
4
Krápníková
In the left part of the valley wall, through a groove and then a chimney to a balcony… Rock Climbing
5
Krápníková
In the left part of the upland wall, through a crack to a balcony, over K through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Krápníková
In the right part of the valley wall, through a crack, groove and chimney n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Krápníková
From the Eastern massif, jump directly n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Krápníková
From S through the chimney between M and the tower over K n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Krápníková
From S by jump, or descent into the saddle and briefly onto the foreland, another jump n.… Rock Climbing
4
Krápníková
From the upper side by chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Kožený zámek
Through the center of the W wall over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
2
Borůvka
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Borůvka
Through the center of the W wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Borůvka
Through the left part of the upland wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Borůvka
Through the center of the upland wall n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Borůvka
Through the chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Jednohlavá věž
Through the chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Jednohlavá věž
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Hlava
Through the middle of the south wall over 2 bolts n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Hlava
Through the center of the upland wall n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Hlava
Through the middle of the downhill wall over 2 bolts n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Hlava
By the right upland gully n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Hlava
Left part of the uphill wall n. v. Rock Climbing
8
Velký převis
In the left part, up the overhanging wall over 2 bolts to the rappel bolt n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Hlava
Descent from the massif and a jump n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Cikán
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Cikán
Through the chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Koráb
From the South edge, hand-traverse in the ledge to the left behind the edge, up to K and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Koráb
Left part of the East face over overhang to crack, to hole, up to ledge, traverse right… Rock Climbing

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