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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
4
Hradní věž
From downhill by the left chimney to the balcony and over K through the crack n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Hradní věž
From the left downhill chimney, briefly onto the balcony and through the gully to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Hradní věž
From the "Castle" tower, a step over into the wide crack and through it n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Hrad
From the north by chimney to a small tower, fall into the crack-chimney and through it n.… Rock Climbing
3
Hradní věž
By chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Hrad
In the left part of the north wall, over 2 K into the crack and through it over 3rd K n.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Hradní věž
Through the center of the downhill wall over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Hrad
In the left part of the west wall, a crack over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Hrad
To the left of the salt lick, by a corner on the shelf to the birch tree, chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Hrad
In the left part of the west wall, over 3 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Hrad
In the right part of the valley face, climb a chimney upwards and slightly to the right. Rock Climbing
6
Hrad
Climb the wall below the rappel point past 3 (K). Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Hrad
From the Castle Tower, a jump and up. Rock Climbing
2
Hrad
From the South, go through a chimney and on the left, climb an internal chimney. Rock Climbing
3
Hradiště
From Northwest, climb an internal chimney and up. Rock Climbing
1
Hrad
From the massif, climb up. Rock Climbing
2
Hrad
Climb the chimney between M and the tower from the upland side. Rock Climbing
6-
Hradiště
Start in the left part of the valley face, climb past (K) directly to the 'Owl Route'… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Hradiště
Climb a crack past 3 (K) to the end and to the left up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Hradiště
On the left part of the West face, climb to a large flake, to the 1st (K), up to a ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Hradiště
Along the South edge, climb past 2 (K) and up. Rock Climbing
7
Hradiště
In the right part of the valley (West) face, climb a recess to a small cave, to the right… Rock Climbing
6
Hradiště
On the right part of the South face, climb past 2 (K) to a ledge, then up a corner. Rock Climbing
7
Hradiště
On the left part of the South face, climb past 2 (K) to a sloping ledge, to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Hradiště
In the middle of the South face, climb past 2 (K) and up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Hradiště
Climb the wall between the routes 'South Face' and 'Iron Age' past 2 (K) directly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Hradiště
From the South, climb a chimney to a ledge, overhang and up. Rock Climbing
6
Hradiště
Climb a corner in the South face past (K) and up. Rock Climbing
?
Hradiště
From a boulder from the South, jump to the edge and up it. Rock Climbing
7
Hradiště
On the right part of the West face, climb past (K) to a balcony, then to the right to an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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