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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
3
Vrátný
By chimney from the west n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Vrátný
From the valley along the gully with a crack n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Šlaufek
From the "Normal Route" ledge, directly up the recess n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Dvojitá
Up the chimney between the towers to a ledge, then straight up the chimney or left along… Rock Climbing
3
Věž v koutě
Through the north chimney between the massif and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Věž v koutě
Up the east face via K to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
9
Herkules
Left of the SW edge, up the face and diagonally left along the sloping ledge to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Herkules
In the middle of the West face, build up and climb the face to the 1st bolt (K). Left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Herkules
In the left part of the lower wall, via 2 bolts (K) directly into the crack and up it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Herkules
Up the left part of the NW face via a bolt (K) and top out. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Herkules
Up the NW face to the notch, onto the West edge and top out. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Herkules
Up the NW face to the notch, left into the small crack and top out. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Herkules
4 m to the right of the route "Bambulárna", up the face via 3 bolts (K) and top out. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Mefistofeles
Up the left part of the South face via 2 bolts (K) and top out. Rock Climbing
8
Mefistofeles
In the left part of the lower wall, up to the 1st bolt (K). Straight to the 2nd bolt (K),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Mefistofeles
Step across from the block at the NE edge onto the edge to the 1st bolt (K) of the "Devil… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Mefistofeles
In the right part of the South face, left of the route "Satanic Verses", up the face via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Mefistofeles
Up the steep face and top out. Rock Climbing
6
Mefistofeles
Up the middle of the lower wall via 2 bolts (K) and top out. Rock Climbing
5
Mefistofeles
Up the crack in the lower wall to the notch and from the right to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Mefistofeles
Climb the crack-chimney in the right part of the lower wall to the balcony, traverse… Rock Climbing
7
Mefistofeles
Climb the crack-chimney of the "Okružení" route to the balcony (sling), left to a bolt (K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Čertova stěna
Up the wall to the right of the "Časy se mění" route, over 2 bolts, not topped out. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Čertova stěna
Up the wall to the left of the "Časy se mění" route, over 2 bolts upwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
10
Čertova stěna
Start 3m to the right of the "Jalová cesta" crack, directly up the wall (2 rings) to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
9
Čertova stěna
With difficulty up the wall through a shallow recess to the ledge and in it to the right… Rock Climbing Vertical wall
7
Vodník
By the right crack in the E wall to the end and left to the balcony to K. Right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Vodník
By the chimney between the towers to the notch to K, by the crack n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Vodník
From the SW foreland, overhang, along the ledge right to the edge (clock) and n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Vodník
From the southwest foreland, overhang, left into the gully and n. v. Rock Climbing

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