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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Adjunkt
To the right of the rappel bolt to the ledge to the original route's bolt hanger and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Adjunkt
Up the SW face to the left of the south edge n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Adjunkt
Up the south face diagonally left to the bolt, left and up n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Adjunkt
From the south face, Myslivcova's overhang to the edge and along it n. v. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Adjunkt
From the ledge in the south face, Myslivcova's jump n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Adjunkt
From the NE face along the edge to a ledge (bolt hanger), left to the edge and along it n… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Stěna proti jaroušovi
Up a crack widening into a chimney n. t. Rock Climbing
5
Pralinka
Up a sloping gully in the center of the wall, higher up a wide crack directly to the pine… Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall +1
7-/7
Pralinka
Up the valley slab to the ledge with the clocks. Slightly right and straight to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Pralinka
In the left part of the wall, along the edge over a bolt to a shelf, up the wall to… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Pralinka
In the right part of the wall, over 2 bolts directly to the pine tree and n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Paleček
Along the NE edge n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Paleček
By the chimney to the right of the ramp n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Paleček
In the left part of the upper wall diagonally to the left n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Paleček
Along the right upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Paleček
By the NW crack n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Paleček
Through the center of the upper wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Paleček
In the NW wall, about 2 m to the right of the crack, use the hand jam to the clock and to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Paleček
By the ramp from the southeast n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Paleček
Along the curved valley edge over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Tutanchamon
Chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Tutanchamon
Along the ledge in the SE massif, traverse to the chimney and by chimneying n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Tutanchamon
East face directly over the overhang to the 1st K of the Martian Route, slightly right,… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Tutanchamon
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Tutanchamon
Near the NW edge, overhanging to the 1st K. Traverse left to a rounded edge and along it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Tutanchamon
From the base of the rock, a fall onto the SE edge and traverse to the 1st K. Diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Tutanchamon
Right part of the SE face over K to the 2nd K of the original route. Rock Climbing
5
Tutanchamon
Crack from the west under the overhang (added ring), another crack to the balcony and n.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Bludiště
Overhanging wall of the main M over K into the gully and up it n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Bludička
Left part of the valley (SW) wall over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing

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