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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
2
Vyhlídková
From E along the bottom of the chimney and the NW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Trojitá
Up the east wall to the fore-rock and summit. Rock Climbing
2
Trojitá
From E or W by chimney to the fore-rock and summit. Rock Climbing
6
Trojitá
By crack in the E wall across a Key Overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Trojitá
Up the wall about 3 m from the "Western Crack" route to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Trojitá
By crack in the W wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Trojitá
Jump onto the foreland and n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Trojitá
Up the west edge via a bolt to the foreland and n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Trojitá
From the South onto the foreland and n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Ostrožní
From the west n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Amfora
From the SE, left along the edge, traverse conflictingly up the chimney to a crack and up… Rock Climbing
3
Amfora
Via a crack in the massif, descent and overhang. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Amfora
From the massif via a jump n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Amfora
Up the SE face from the left to the 1st bolt, to the 2nd bolt, and directly to the 3rd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Amfora
Via a chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Amfora
Up the uphill face to the left of the chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Hrobník
Through the center of the upper wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Hrobník
In the right part of the upper wall into a groove, along it to the balcony and n. v. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Hrobka
Leap from the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Hrobka
Up the wall under the rappel point to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Hrobka
Along the ledge to the right to the valley edge (clock) and along it to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Hrobka
Chimney between the massif and the tower to the edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Hrobka
Along the NW edge over 2K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Vetřelec
Through the crack from the valley to the balcony and up the wall over K to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Vetřelec
Leap from the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Vetřelec
Through the center of the West wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Vetřelec
Along the right upper edge to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Vetřelec
Up the upper wall to the left onto the balcony and directly over the overhang to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Vetřelec
Through the center of the upper wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Mysliveček
Straight up the SW wall into the hole, through the crack, and over the overhang to the… Rock Climbing Danger

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