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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Čuba
Up the right slope edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Čuba
From NE to the shelf, upwards into the gully and along it n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Dvojčata
Through the chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Pes
Right part of the S face n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Pes
NE edge to the foreland and n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Pes
Through the chimney from the valley to the foreland and n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Pes
Gully in the East face to the end and n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Ropucha
Step over from the boulder to the NW face, right to the West edge and along it n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Pes
Left part of the North face n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Ropucha
SW face slightly left, overhanging face upwards and n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Ropucha
North. face along the NE edge n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Ropucha
South edge to the ledge to K and right wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Ropucha
Northern face n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Věž u jehličky
East face into the double crack, it n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Jehlička
Northern edge n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Věž u jehličky
Crack in the South face n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Jehlička
From the NE edge under the overhang, left along the edge, right onto the ledge and n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Traverzová
South edge over two overhangs n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Mravenčí
Along the North face along the NE edge to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Mravenčí
From the North, right to the ledge and up the West face to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Mravenčí
Through the center of the North face to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Tři věžičky
Through the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Úzká věžička
SW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Buková
From the boulder, traverse to the crack, up it to the ledge and left to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Sokolí věž dolní
By the chimney from the valley to the ledge and left along the wall near the edge to the… Rock Climbing
2
Sokolí věž horní
From the NW by the chimney and small wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Sokolí věž dolní
Up the inner chimney between the towers to the wedged boulder and from there up the… Rock Climbing
5
Sokolí stěna
Up the crack in the middle part of the face (briefly possible by chimneying against the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Sokolí stěna
Through the center of the downhill face past 3 rings to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Sokolí stěna
Between "lower falcon tower" and the "Memories of Dana" route, up the smooth face past a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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