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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
7
Slůně
Through the center of the W wall to K. Ascend right to the edge and along the wall n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Slůně
From the massif, descend to the chimney, overhang, left to the SE edge and n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Pilíř
NW edge n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Pilíř
SE edge upwards to the S face and into a notch. Right to the edge and follow it n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Tchoří věže
Through a wide chimney between M and the main tower n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Tchoří věže
NE edge n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Smuteční
Up the eastern chimney near the NE edge n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Smuteční
From the massif traverse into the North wall and n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Žabák
Right in the North wall to the notch and then diagonally left up the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Žabák
Directly up the NW edge n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Žabák
In the South wall to the left of the SE edge onto a shelf, diagonally left to a platform… Rock Climbing
4
Večerní
Traverse left into the overhanging crack and up it n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Večerní
Traverse East through the wall into the notch in the SE edge and left up the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Večerní
From the wall diagonally to the right and through the groove n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Večerní
From the center of the North wall to the left to the edge and n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Večerní
From the sloping shelf directly n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Šikmá
Along the east wall upwards and left behind the SE edge, traverse to the SW edge. Rock Climbing
7
Šikmá
In the left part of the valley-side wall with a diagonal chimney to K and gully. Rock Climbing
6
Šikmá
From the left upper (NE) edge to the crack, upwards and right. Rock Climbing
7
Šikmá
Along the SE edge to the end of its receding part, right behind the edge and to K. Along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Šikmá
Along the SW crack and edge onto the shelf and small wall. Rock Climbing
4
Šikmá
Along the upper wall. Rock Climbing
3
Šikmá
Positioned into the left part of the north wall and right. Rock Climbing
6-
Faraon
By the NW variant of the "Old Route" to the horizontal notch, over the overhang and the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Faraon
In the left part of the NW wall, by cracks to the bolt, to the right of it up to the… Rock Climbing
6
Faraon
Along the NW wall (added ring) diagonally to the right to the balcony and along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Ramses
Over the blocks in the E wall up over the bolt, to the left to the edge and n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Ramses
Step from M to the NE edge and along it (added bolt) n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Ramses
Along the western edge over 2 rings and a bolt n. v.
6-
Ramses
Near the SE edge, through the notch to the sloping ledge, traverse left behind the edge… Rock Climbing

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