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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6-
Zelenáč
Western edge n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Zelenáč
To the right behind the right downhill edge, wall over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Zelenáč
From the massif by a jump n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Bradavice
In the left part of the valley wall diagonally right to the edge and along it n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Slůně
Overhanging (south) valley wall directly into the oblique crack and along it to the… Rock Climbing
6
Bouřková věž
(Route in memory of Mirek Dříza) From the center of the SE wall traverse right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
7
Bouřková věž
Diagonally right up the east wall to K and n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Bouřková věž
From the upper side, along the right edge to the ledge and to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Bouřková věž
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
8
Bouřková věž
In the middle of the valley wall (built) over K to the ledge, traverse left to the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
4
Teddy
Through the middle of the SE wall via the Key (K) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7
Věž u Nedvězí
Downward wall to the left of the edge via 2 Keys (K) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Věž u Nedvězí
Right part of the downward wall via the Key (K) to the ledge and further along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Věž u Nedvězí
Right part of the upper wall to the platform, traverse to the downward wall and to the… Rock Climbing
2
Zelenáč
Crack of the massif descend to the ledge overhang n. v. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
2
Zelenáč
From the massif jump n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Makovička
In the left part of the N wall to the small falconet and n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Zelenáč
Chimney between the massif and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Zelenáč
Right part of the valley wall over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Zelenáč
Right part of the plateau wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Zelenáč
Narrow W wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Lednová
NE crack to the balcony and from there n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Lednová
Along the SE edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Lednová
Crack from W to the balcony and n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Aprílová
From the center of the E wall right to the edge and n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Lednová
Through the center of the E wall n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Slůně
North crack under the trunk and chimney to the right n. v. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Slůně
From the massif near the E wall n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Slůně
From the valley foothills right into the gully and onto the ledge, up to the coulisse and… Rock Climbing
2
Slůně
From the massif, descend to the chimney, overhang, left to the SE edge and n. v. Rock Climbing

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