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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
7
Hlásný
Through the center of the west wall (K) n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Hlásný
From K to the right to the NW edge and along it, n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Hlásný
In the center of the valley wall, through an overhanging crack in the corner towards K,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Hlásný
Up the eastern edge over dK to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hlásný
Southwest edge, n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Hlásný
From the position in the center of the upland (S) wall, n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Litoměřická věž
Short traverse in the middle of the East wall and up the depression to K. Up to the sandy… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Litoměřická věž
Downstream chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Litoměřická věž
Briefly "Old Route", then traverse left to K. Up the crumbly wall to the right to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Plazivá
Original route to the plate. From it directly to K, either easier from the left, or… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
2
Plazivá
From the massif, step over to the E wall and NE edge n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Břevnovská věž
From the north side via a crack n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Křížová věž
Through the middle of the upland wall n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Křížová věž
"Old way" to the ledge, traverse right across the entire wall and V edge n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Křížová věž
On the right side of the S wall at the edge via K, higher up via steps n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Křížová věž
Via the eastern edge n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Křížová věž
In the middle of the downhill face over K n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Křížová věž
From the north via a chimney with an overhanging start n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Křížová věž
In the left part of the S face to the small balcony. Up the edge over the large hourglass… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Křížová věž
Up the left plateau edge to the ledge, traverse left and up the corner n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Křížová věž
Through the middle of the S face via cracks over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Askalon
Up the crack in the north face over K and the hourglass n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Askalon
Up the wall to the ledge to the point, to the left of the hourglass via the crack n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Askalon
Up the north corner under the overhang and from the left over K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Askalon
Along the northwest edge to the bench under the overhang. To the left in the north face… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Askalon
In the middle of the south face, via a small crack to the 1st K, from left to right onto… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Askalon
Through the middle of the pillar over K to the sun. K n. t. (book) Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Askalon
Up the small chimney in the right part of the south face of the massif n. t. Rock Climbing
5
Starosvětská věž
Up the plateau wall below the rappel point n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
4
Starosvětská věž
Left of the route "Morová rána" up the wall over the BH n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2

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