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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Kukačka
Up the western wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6-
Kukačka
From the tip of the balcony, over the BH n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Laid wall
4
Kukačka
Through the crack in the western wall to the balcony, up the groove in the middle of the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kukačka
From the chimney, following the receding SE edge n. v. Rock Climbing Laid wall
1
Kukačka
From the uphill side, traverse over the chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Kukačka
In the right part of the eastern wall n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Kukačka
At the left downhill edge, over the overhang to the balcony, from the groove "Jarní cesty… Rock Climbing Overhang
6+/7-
Kukačka
Through the middle of the downhill wall, over the overhang and to the right of the groove… Rock Climbing Overhang
2
Racochejlí stěny
Through the edge of a narrow promontory with a window n. t. Rock Climbing
3
Traperská vyhlídka
In the left part of the west wall through the recess n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Traperská vyhlídka
Through the center of the west wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
3
Traperská vyhlídka
Through the left upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
2
Traperská vyhlídka
To the left of "Náhorní spára" n. v. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
2
Traper
In a wide couloir in the middle of the south wall n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Židovská stěna
From the 'clock' straight to the rappel anchor (K). (belay) Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Židovská stěna
Wall to the left of the original route to the roof (loop), right into the crack and via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Židovská stěna
Along the crack in the left prominent corner over the anchor (K) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Židovská stěna
Via "Aaron's Rod" to the roof (loop), traverse in the ledge to the right to the edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5
Židovská stěna
In the distinct corner in the middle of the wall through the corner crack (hourglass… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
7
Židovská stěna
Left of the edge up the overhanging wall (fixed point), right onto the edge to the fixed… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Židovská stěna
From the start of "Easy Route" straight up the wall to the fixed point, through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4
Židovská stěna
From the gully briefly to the corner and right up the wall over a weak fixed point, not… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
3
Ararat
Center of the wall on the slope to sl. K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Ararat
By stemming and left over BH, clock and sl. K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Vrtule
Narrow south face n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Vrtule
Between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Vrtule
From the rock face over the chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Zelenáč
From the upper side to the right onto the downhill edge to the 1st K, then along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Zelenáč
Through the middle of the downhill wall over a large hole (hourglass) to K. Lift into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Zelenáč
Upper blunt edge from S n. v. Rock Climbing

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