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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
7/7+
Čajovna
To the left of the "Memory of the KGB" route, straight up the wall to the ledge (sling)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Čajovna
Via the wall and crack to the 1st bolt on the ledge, a wide crack to the 2nd bolt, and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Čajovna
Near the left lower edge, briefly up into the holes. Along them traverse right into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Čajovna
To the right of the "lower crack," via the wall over the bolt into the diagonal crack,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
7
Čajovna
Via the upper wall to the bolt, onto the balcony, and top out. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9
Čajovna
In the right part of the lower wall, over 3 bolts and a fixed anchor, top out. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Čajovna
Via the edge and crack to the bolt and top out. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Čajovna
Through the middle of the lower wall, over 3 bolts, top out. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1
Svatováclavská věž
From the massif east of the tower, go up. Rock Climbing
2
Svatováclavská věž
From the massif north of the tower, a jump, go up. Rock Climbing
6
Svatováclavská věž
By the overhanging corner to the right of the broken crack up to the level of the ring of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Svatováclavská věž
In the right part of the lower wall into the hole and diagonally left to the left lower… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Svatováclavská věž
In the middle of the lower wall, a crack higher up a chimney, go up. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Svatováclavská věž
To the left of the route "Alibaba", climb the wall to a ring and over the overhang, go up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Svatováclavská věž
By the left upper edge to the 1st ring, further along the edge to the 2nd ring and go up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Svatováclavská věž
In the middle of the upper wall to the left of the corner over a ring, go up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Svatováclavská věž
By the right lower edge into the notch and left over a ring, go up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Svatováclavská věž
By a broken crack in the upper wall, go up. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Svatováclavská věž
From the gully from the east, along the left upper edge to the balcony to a ring and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Vyhlídková věž
Up the left uphill edge upwards. Rock Climbing
4
Vyhlídková věž
Up the right uphill edge upwards. Rock Climbing
3
Vyhlídková věž
From the middle ledge in the overhanging wall to the left overhanging edge and along it… Rock Climbing
5
Vyhlídková věž
In the uphill wall up the center of the smooth slab upwards. Rock Climbing
2
Vyhlídková věž
Up the center of the uphill wall upwards. Rock Climbing
5
Stojan
Through the chimney between M and the tower to the balcony (clock). Over the overhang… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Stojan
From the saddle between M and the tower, right behind the edge onto the ledge and up the… Rock Climbing
3
Stojan
From the saddle traverse right along the ledge to its end and up the wall. Rock Climbing
6
Mamut
From the center of the overhanging (S) wall into the hole. Traverse right, over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Mamut
On the left in the overhanging wall, diagonally left up the wall and an indistinct crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Mamut
From the east, through an overhanging corner between M and the tower to the saddle and up… Rock Climbing

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