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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
4
Vyhlídka
In the middle of the right wall of the large corner in the SW face by a crack n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Vyhlídka
To the left of the „Kout“ route by a hand crack n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Vyhlídka
4 m to the right of the Lámavá cesta route, by the wall and a crack n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Vyhlídka
In the large corner in the SW face by the left notch (K) n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Vyhlídka
6 m to the right of the large corner in the SW face, by the wall to K. By a crack over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Vyhlídka
2 m to the right of the large corner in the southwest face by a crack, then over the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
5
Vyhlídka
To the right in the SW face, by a crack and groove to the balcony. By a chimney in the… Rock Climbing
6
Vyhlídka
To the right of the "Chimney" by the wall to the balcony. To the right by a fine crack n.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Vyhlídka
From K traverse to the left and by a crack n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Vyhlídka
To the right of the balcony by a hand-traverse crack (K) n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Bábovka (Lesní hrad)
Via „Houbařská cesta“ to its 1st K, from there to the ledge, then over the 2nd K and BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7
Věž přátelství
Narrow east wall directly n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Věž přátelství
4m right of "Old Path" wall directly n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Věž přátelství
Narrow east wall, then traverse diagonally right and still right n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Věž přátelství
Freely onto the pre-rock and SE edge n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Věž přátelství
Start on "Corner Path", after 2 m traverse left and via the edge to a bolt. Wall to n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Věž přátelství
Left part of the descending wall to a bolt, wall to an hourglass and directly n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Věž přátelství
In the center of the north wall, via an overhanging notch to an hourglass and directly n.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Věž přátelství
3 m left of "Path under the overhang", descending wall slightly left (hourglass) to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Věž přátelství
Descending wall under the overhang, across a bolt directly n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Věž přátelství
Left of "Windy Path" via a notch (bolt) n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Věž přátelství
6 m left of "Old Path" via the wall to a hole. Left and wall n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Věž přátelství
Over the overhanging west face to a bolt and over the overhang directly n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Věž přátelství
From the bolt, right via a chimney and wall n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Věž přátelství
3 m left of "Old Path" via a crack (added bolt) n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Věž přátelství
Through the center of the upper (south) wall (artificial steps) n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Kameník
Far right of M, descend through a gully and loamy chimney to a large overgrown balcony. … Rock Climbing
1
Kameník
From the massif, descend and fall or jump to the balcony and wall n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Kameník
In the middle of the valley wall, up the crack under the overhang to the right to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1
Kameník
Far left, in the descending wall, via a chimney to a large overgrown balcony, continue as… Rock Climbing

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