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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
Roklice a Loubenský potok 1272 routes Kokořín Valley 1140 routes Planý důl 904 routes Rač 839 routes Obrok 818 routes Mšeno 611 routes Beškov 317 routes Blatečky 313 routes Vlhošť a Stříbrný vrch 305 routes Doksy 302 routes Vidim 279 routes Česká Lípa 265 routes Blíževedly 220 routes Dražejov and Nedvězí 205 routes Chudolazy 199 routes Želízy and Tupadly 195 routes Osinalice 189 routes Dolní Zimoř 172 routes Vlkov 164 routes Tubož 162 routes Úštěk 139 routes Šemanovice 139 routes Moon Valley 128 routes Popelov 127 routes Nové Osinalice 127 routes Hradčanské stěny 102 routes Zakšín 99 routes Houska 81 routes Skalská tabule 78 routes Nový Berštejn 33 routes
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5
Plotnička
From the upper side, traverse left towards K. Up the wall into a small chimney and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Plotnička
Up the upper slab to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Plotnička
Up the west face to the 1st ring (K), then into the hole (hourglass) to the right, behind… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Německá jehla (Konradstalnadel)
Along the upper edge, past a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Konrád (Talwächter)
In the NW wall diagonally right to K. Right behind the edge and (2nd K) by indistinct… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Konrád (Talwächter)
In the upper wall, traverse left under the small cave (loop). Into the cave, diagonally… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Druhá věžička
Right of the "Practice Crack," up the face to the first K. Through the gully to the cave,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
První věžička
Up the southeast edge (n. v.). Rock Climbing
2
První věžička
Up the southwest arete (n. v.). Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
První věžička
From the block, up the west facelet (n. v.). Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
První věžička
Up the center of the east face via the bolt (n. v.). Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
První věžička
Up the north edge (n. v.). Rock Climbing
5
Tuboh (Konradsturm)
Far right in the upper face, briefly into the gully, then to a shelf and up the southwest… Rock Climbing
1
Sitenská věž
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Sitenská věž
Through a crack in the massif near the left plateau edge of the tower to a ledge in the… Rock Climbing
?
Lukešova věž
From the uphill side, briefly onto the foreland and jump, unknown variation. Rock Climbing
2
Lebka
Up the chimney from the west, unknown end. Rock Climbing
5
Lebka
Briefly follow the route "Western Chimney", right into the West wall and through a hole (… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Lebka
From the 1st K of the route "Nail into the Coffin", directly to the 2nd K, unknown end. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Lebka
In the south wall, through a small cave or directly to the 'clocks' (formations), higher… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Lebka
Up the eastern chimney, unknown end. Rock Climbing
4
Klemperova stěna
Up the chimney in the middle of the face, n. t. Rock Climbing
3
Klemperova stěna
On the right side of the face, up the chimney in the corner, n. t. Rock Climbing
4
Malamut
Left upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Malamut
Through the center of the upper wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Malamut
Along the sloping ledge to the right upper edge (hourglass), along it over the ledge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Malamut
Through the center of the upper wall n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Medvědice
Overhanging NW wall to the balcony, left and through the center of the north wall… Rock Climbing
8
Medvědice
Through the center of the valley (E) wall over 2 holes and wall directly along the right… Rock Climbing
6-
Medvědice
Through the center of the upper wall into the hole and wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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