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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
7
Opomenutá
Downhill face from the right to a ring bolt, then into the gully and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Opomenutá
Center of the uphill (west) face to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Opomenutá
Up the uphill edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Opomenutá
Left of the north edge, center of the face to the top. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
3
Opomenutá
Center of the northwest face, later up the crack on the right to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Jahnův kámen
Up the right downhill edge over a ring bolt to the foreland and then via the "Old Route"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Jahnův kámen
Up the crack in the right part of the uphill face to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Jahnův kámen
From the uphill face, traverse right under the crack and along it to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Jahnův kámen
By a chimney to the ledge, transition to the tower and by the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Dolská jehla
Through the center of the upper wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Dolská jehla
By the narrow western wall and right by the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Dolská jehla
On the left in the upper wall to a ledge, left and by the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Dolská jehla
Through the center of the valley side wall, left to the edge, further over the overhang… Rock Climbing
2
Dolská jehla
By the right upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Strážce Ptačího údolí
Through the center of the upper wall, traverse right to the edge and n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Strážce Ptačího údolí
From the center of the upper wall left to the edge and n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Achilles
In the western wall along the crack and right to the balcony. Directly up the southern… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Šiška
From the balcony along the upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Achilles
Southern edge of the backdrop to the summit and n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Achilles
Up the left part of the upper face to the edge and to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Achilles
Up the center of the downhill face of the backdrop over K to its top and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Achilles
Up the chimney between the backdrop and the tower to the top of the backdrop and to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Achilles
Up the right part of the upper east face to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Odysseus
Up the upper face, slightly from the left (stemming at the bottom) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Odysseus
Jump from the massif to the ledge and to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Odysseus
On the right side of the upper face, directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Medúza
Up the downhill face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Medúza
Up the upper face to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Plotnička
Up the left part of the west face to the 1st ring (K), through the hourglass to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Plotnička
Directly up the crack to K of the original route. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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