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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
7
Jestřáb
In the right part of the valley wall along the small corner cracks n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Jestřáb
Via the upland wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Jestřáb
From the gully to the left upland edge and n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Bohoušův synek
To the right of the "Old Route" through the middle of the upland wall via overhang n. v. Rock Climbing Overhang
2
Hrách
Up the upland wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Hrách
Through the left part of the upland wall n. v. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
7
Bohoušův synek
In the left part of the upland (SE) wall over a small balcony n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Čarodějnice
Up the wall under the abseil point and the rib n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Čarodějnice
On the right in the upland wall, through a chimney between M and a tower to a ledge,… Rock Climbing
7
Kančí věž
Through the left part of the downhill wall over the large clock and K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Čarodějnice
By the "Old Route" to a ledge and further left along the right upland edge n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Čarodějnice
Along the left upland edge n. v. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
6
Kančí věž
To the left of the "Left Upland" route, through a narrow wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Kančí věž
In the right part of the downhill wall along the rib n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Kančí věž
Through the left crack in the upland wall n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Rohatá
To the right of the "Old Route" n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Kančí věž
Through the right crack in the upland wall n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Rohatá
To the right of the "double crack" by the edge to the foothills and the "Old Route" n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Rohatá
Through the left part of the upland wall to the foothills and the "Old Route" n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Rohatá
Through the right part of the upland wall to the foothills and the "Old Route" n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Rohatá
From NE by double crack to the foothills and the "Old Route" n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Rohatá
From the south, by gully to the foothills and the left edge n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Liduprázdná
From the south, through a crack and chimney to the saddle, right to K and right behind…
2
Rohatá
Along the western edge to the foothills and the "Old Route" n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Indián
From the block to the left of the "Normal Route" by hopping n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Indián
Up the corner in the middle of the downhill face to the saddle, traverse right to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Indián
From the uphill face over the fallen block to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Indián
Up the crack in the uphill face to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Indián
Up the wide crack to the saddle and to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Opomenutá
Right part of the east face over a ring bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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