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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
2
Vlček
From the South, through the chimney between the tower and "Vlcice" and the wall to the… Rock Climbing
1
Vlčice
Leap from "Vlcka" to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Vlček
Northern edge to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Vlčice
From "Vlcka" on the right, building up from the overhang to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Vlčice
Uphill wall diagonally to the right across a hole to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Vlčice
From W chimney to the bench and further by chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Vlčice
Narrow wall between a narrow chimney and a crack directly to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Vlčice
Right in the NW wall by crack and overhanging wall to the pre-summit n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Vlčice
From N chimney between "Vlček" and the tower to the hole in the tower wall. Step over… Rock Climbing
4
Vlčice
Crack on the right in the west wall to the ledge and higher right along the lower wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Vlčice
From E chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Veličenstvo
Along the left lower (northeast) edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
8
Veličenstvo
Left of the crack of the route "Cave Climber" through the wall and overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Danger +1
9
Konrád
Right of the Old Route through the wall n.v. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
3
Svišť
Via the western edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Svišť
From the NE edge traverse left into the East face to a crack and via it n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Svišť
From the tower to the outcrop of the upland massif. Rock Climbing
4
Svišť
Via the upland (NE) edge n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Zaječí hřbet
Through the center of the lower face across 2 bolts n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Zaječí hřbet
Along the left lower edge across 2 bolts n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Zaječí hlava
From the upland side traverse right into the West face and via the chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Zaječí hlava
Via "April Edge" route to the balcony over the overhang and rightwards across the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Zaječí hlava
Via the crack from the north n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Zaječí hlava
From the highest point of the saddle on the East side traverse to the left n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Zaječí hlava
From the upland side traverse to the left to the middle of the valley wall and via the… Rock Climbing
6
Jestřáb
From the upland side to the right onto a shelf and via crack n. v. Rock Climbing
8
Jestřáb
To the left of the corner of the "Vision" route, via edge to the 1st K and via wall over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Jestřáb
Via the right part of the valley wall over 4 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9
Jestřáb
Through the middle of the valley wall over 4 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Jestřáb
To the left of the "Mask" route, via a corner crack and higher up via edge, over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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