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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Hefaistos
From the foreland right through the wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Partyzán
Upper wall to the left onto the bench and a small wall n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Hefaistos
In the right part of the SW wall to the ledge and directly to K. Left under the gully and… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Hefaistos
From the foreland to the S edge and over K n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Vlčák
Through the center of the valley wall via K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Vlčák
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Vlčák
On the left edge of the SE wall to the ledge, traverse to the right part of the wall and… Rock Climbing
6
Vlčák
On the left in the upland wall shortly through the chimney (clock), left to the edge to… Rock Climbing Textile belay Overhang
2
Vlčák
Chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Čtyřhran
NW edge n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Čtyřhran
SW edge n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Čtyřhran
SE edge n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Čtyřhran
West face through holes n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Čtyřhran
NE edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Novoroční věž
Through the center of the upper face, n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Novoroční věž
In the west face to the hourglass on the left edge and to the right via a small face, n.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Novoroční věž
Via the NE face across K, n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Novoroční věž
In the upper face along the ledge to the left and via the left upper edge, n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Novoroční věž
Via the right upper edge, n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Vlčí doupě
To the left of the large chimney, via an overhanging crack (loops) into a small cave … Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Vlčí doupě
Along the rounded right edge of the massif (loop) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Vlčí doupě
Completely on the right in the West wall of the massif, a notch and briefly to the left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Vlčí doupě
Center of the wall across a K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Beránek
Through a neck-like notch via a K and onwards to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Vlček
Leap from "Vldice" to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Beránek
Center of the West wall across 2 Ks to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Beránek
Through the chimney in the downhill wall to the rock face and through the center of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Beránek
Through the chimney in the uphill wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Vlček
To the right of the SE edge along a faint crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Vlček
Center of the East wall across a hole to the top. Rock Climbing

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