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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
5
Mourek
Through the crack to the top of the backdrop and via the Uphill Route to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Mourek
Via the "Downhill Route" up to beyond the traverse (sling). Left into the center of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Mourek
From the right along the right downhill edge to K. Into the ledge, left into the route … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Mourek
In the east face, along the crack to the ledge (sling), traverse behind the edge into the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Mourek
Through the center of the downhill face to the ledge at the 1st K, right into the hole,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Mourek
From K diagonally left into the small cave and through the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Mourek
From the massif, descend through a crack to a ledge and overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Mourek
Far right in the southwest face, through a crack into a chimney and the original route to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Mourek
Briefly descend via the "Descent Route" and jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Mourek
From the massif, jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Zouvák
Northern chimney between the massif and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Mourek
Upland chimney to the top of the backdrop and over a small cave n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Zouvák
From the massif descent to a ledge, jump and easily n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Zouvák
Southern chimney between the massif and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Zouvák
By jump from the E massif n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Poslední masiv
In the left part of the massif, to the tip, climb the wall over (K) to the crack to (2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Houba
From the west massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Houba
From the downhill side through the wide chimney between M and the tower over 2 K, upwards… Rock Climbing
3
Poslední masiv
In the left part of the massif, climb the wall (loops) to the crack and up it n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Houba
From the west massif to the block in the saddle and to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Poslední masiv
In the middle part of the downhill wall to the overgrown terrace, over the overhang,… Rock Climbing
2
Poslední masiv
In the right part, through the chimney n. t. Rock Climbing
6-
Vojtěch
From the SW edge along the ledge to the right under the birch tree, up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Vojtěch
Through the right part of the upper wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Vojtěch
Overhanging upper wall to the right of the arch into the notch and to the left to K and a… Rock Climbing
4
Vojtěch
From the upper side, through a depression to the right of the SW edge on a ledge to K. To… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Vojtěch
In the NW wall diagonally to the left over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Kovadlina
Through the center of the valley face past 4 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Kovadlina
Up the corner in the valley face past a bolt to the foreland and then via the "Normal… Rock Climbing
6
Kovadlina
Along the southeast edge to the 1st bolt. Chimney onto the ledge to the 2nd bolt. To the…

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