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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
2
Bobřík
SW wall to the left and along the ridge n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Marťan
By crack from E n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Bobřík
Through the middle of the SW wall across the hole n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Bobřík
Along the upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Marťan
From S along the right downhill edge to 1. K and 2. K, then by opposition n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Marťan
Through the chimney between the massif and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Marťan
Descent from the massif and jump n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Marťan
Through the left part of the downhill wall across 2 K into the crack and along it n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1
Věž pod smrkem
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Věž pod smrkem
By the crack from the west n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Jednorožec
In the western wall, through the chimney between the southern M and the tower under the… Rock Climbing
1
Věž pod smrkem
By the upper chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Jednorožec
From the S massif by jump n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Jednorožec
At the N end of the W wall, a corner into the chimney, then to the top of the backdrop to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Jednorožec
Through the center of the valley wall over 2 K directly n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Jednorožec
Chimney between the tower and the E massif n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Jednorožec
From the chimney between the E massif and the tower, traverse through a narrow chimney… Rock Climbing
1
Jednorožec
From the eastern massif to the southern part of the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Jednorožec
To the left of the "Východní přeskok" (Eastern Jump) route, descend to a sloping ledge,… Rock Climbing
7
Kaninský masiv 3
Along the edge of the massif, over a bolt (K) directly. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Vagabund
In the left part of the East wall, by a crack and through the chimney (IV), or outside… Rock Climbing
3
Vagabund
In the uphill wall traverse along the ledge to the left behind the edge, traverse into… Rock Climbing
4
Vagabund
In the right side of the small saddle between M and the tower onto the ledge, to the left… Rock Climbing
7
Kocour
In the left part of the downhill face, through the crack to K, up the face to the ledge… Rock Climbing
7
Kocour
In the center of the downhill face, corner under the overhang (wide hourglass), traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Kocour
Through the wide chimney between Cat Rock and the tower to the end and up the face to the… Rock Climbing
6
Kocour
Via the right uphill edge over K to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kocour
Over steps to the corner, through it to the sub-summit plateau and to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Kocour
Through the center of the uphill face to K and to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Kocour
From the uphill massif, overhang into the center of the uphill face, traverse left to the… Rock Climbing

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