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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
Roklice a Loubenský potok 1272 routes Kokořín Valley 1140 routes Planý důl 904 routes Rač 839 routes Obrok 818 routes Mšeno 611 routes Beškov 317 routes Blatečky 313 routes Vlhošť a Stříbrný vrch 305 routes Doksy 302 routes Vidim 279 routes Česká Lípa 265 routes Blíževedly 220 routes Dražejov and Nedvězí 205 routes Chudolazy 199 routes Želízy and Tupadly 195 routes Osinalice 189 routes Dolní Zimoř 172 routes Vlkov 164 routes Tubož 162 routes Úštěk 139 routes Šemanovice 139 routes Moon Valley 128 routes Popelov 127 routes Nové Osinalice 127 routes Hradčanské stěny 102 routes Zakšín 99 routes Houska 81 routes Skalská tabule 78 routes Nový Berštejn 33 routes
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3
Kovadlina
In the left part of the upper face, up the chimney to the foreland, up the small face… Rock Climbing
1
Kovadlina
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Kovadlina
Up the chimney between M and the tower, through the window into the east face and up the… Rock Climbing
?
Sváteční
From the gorge by crack to the E massif and a jump n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Sváteční
From the gorge by crack to the balcony and the "Normal Route" n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Sváteční
From the eastern massif n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Sváteční
From the gorge by chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Sváteční
In the north wall by crack to K, wall to ledge and chimney to pine tree. Upwards and… Rock Climbing
6-
Sváteční
Through the middle of the valley wall over K to a small cave, from right to left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Sváteční
By receding chimney to the balcony and the Normal Route n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Sváteční
From the upland side by chimney to the balcony and a smooth groove n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Listopadová
From the downhill (N) side through the gully n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Listopadová
Chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Listopadová
From the S of the massif, descend through the chimney and overhang n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Listopadová
North wall over 1st K to the balcony and over 2nd K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Listopadová
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Jezevčík
Crack in the center of the E wall to the large balcony and n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Jezevčík
Crack from the upper side n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Jezevčík
In the right part of the east wall to K and indentation on the right n. v.
6
Jezevčík
Left part of the W wall into the hole (hourglass) upwards and wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Jezevčík
Crack in the N wall over K to the ledge from it n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Jezevčík
Route "Across the ridge" to the hourglass, traverse left over K to the pine tree at the…
6
Jezevčík
Center of the west wall to K and slightly to the left n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Jezevčík
In the left part of the upper wall n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Jezevčík
Right of the "Across the Snout" route, by slab n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Partyzán
East wall to the 1st K, right behind the edge to the 2nd K and n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Partyzán
Along the right upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Partyzán
In the right part of the lower wall to the falcon and it to the ledge. Left over the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Partyzán
From the massif jump to the ledge, wall n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Hefaistos
From the foreland right through the wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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